Knit a Scrubbie

Who doesn't need a scrubbie (or scrubby)?  Making your own is quick and simple.

This isn't really a pattern - just how I like to knit scrubbies.  Very simple, you just need a few yards of nylon mesh netting (some people use tulle - I prefer the nylon net) and some needles.  I like to use size 10 wood or bamboo needles, you can use whatever type and size works for you.  These scrubbies are just worked in garter stitch.  Make them in one color or many, big or small.  You can even carry a strand of cotton yarn along with the nylon mesh; this will make the scrubbies a little bulkier and they will hold dish soap a bit better.  There is no right or wrong way to do these, so get yourself some nylon mesh netting and make some scrubbies!

A word of warning - you don't want to pull or tug on this too hard, because it will rip.  Firm but gentle.  I just cut strips about an inch wide - they don't have to be perfect.  Just eyeball it.

I got my nylon mesh at fabric.com, but you can also find this stuff at Jo-Ann's - they even have "Scrubbie Mesh".

Easy Peasy Reversible Cowl

Here is my latest cowl design, the Easy Peasy Reversible Cowl!

If you can knit in the round, and make knits and purls, then you can make this cowl.  The cowl is knit with just one skein of my Merino DK.  (231 yds/211 m - 3.5 oz/100 gr 100% superwash merino wool DK weight)

The stitch pattern creates a beautiful fabric on both sides, so you can just throw it on without worrying that the 'wrong' side is showing.

It is also very easy to make the cowl larger - as written it is appx. 38" x 8-1/2".  Instructions are given within the pattern for making a larger size. Keep in mind, the bigger you make it, the more yarn you will need.

You will need a US size 6 circular needle, 24", a stitch marker and yarn needle for weaving in the ends also.

This pattern is available for purchase HERE in my shop, or you can also purchase it through Ravelry.

Garter Tab Cast On

The Garter Tab Cast On is how I start all of my top down shawls; I love this cast on!  I didn't love it at first though.  In fact, I didn't like it and stayed away from it.  Why?  Because it seemed hard and confusing, and I really didn't understand what in the world it was for.

This way of thinking is of course, silly.  Nothing is hard once you learn to do it.  In order to learn, you must do.  And it's just yarn - if you don't get it the first time (and you probably won't), try again and again until you get it.

One day I tried it and discovered it was sooo easy and I love it!  There really isn't anything hard about it.  You cast on a few stitches, pick up and knit a few more stitches, and there you have a garter tab cast on.

The main reason I  wanted to master the garter tab cast on is because I really wanted to knit a top down shawl.  I couldn't quite wrap my mind around how you could knit a triangle shawl starting from the top, instead of from the bottom point.  I wanted to know!  The only way I knew to start a top down shawl was with the garter tab cast on.  I know now it isn't necessary to use a garter tab, but it is my preferred method.  And by the way, top down shawls aren't hard to knit either.  They are just as easy to knit as a bottom up triangle shawl.

Before we begin, I will say that this is only one way to do a garter tab cast on.  Some knitters prefer to do a provisional cast on, and then when ready to pick up along the cast on edge, remove the waste yarn and pick up the live stitches.  Too much muss, fuss, and fiddle for me.  This tab is such a small part of the knitting, nobody is even going to notice.  If you'd like to see the provisional cast on method, just do a search and you will get plenty of results.

For the garter tab cast on, I normally start with four stitches, because I have this thing about even numbers, but often you will see patterns call for you to start with three stitches and knit six rows.  In addition to my 'thing' for even numbers, I think four is just easier to work with than three.  So for our purposes here, we will use four.

Cast on four stitches.
Knit eight rows.
After last row, do not turn work over.  Instead, keeping the same side of the work facing you, turn the tab 90 degrees clockwise so that the left side of the tab is now facing up - you will pick up and knit four stitches along the side.
Now, turn the tab again so that the cast on edge is facing up; you will pick up and knit four more stitches along the cast on edge.

You should have a total of twelve stitches and are ready to begin.

This is just an example; always cast on/knit/pick up the number of stitches your pattern directs.  Even if you are working with a different number, the method is the same.

Once you have the required number of stitches on your needles, continue on with your pattern.  I usually knit a plain row before beginning the increases - that is just how I do it.  You can do whatever you feel works best for you.

Since this technique is/can be confusing in writing, of course I have a video to show you how it is done.

Here you go, and Happy Knitting!

Beaded Bind Off

To go along with the Beaded Cast On from last week, here is an easy way to add beads to your bind off.

For this method, you will need a crochet hook sized appropriately for your yarn/beads.  I used a size 10 Steel Crochet Hook for my sample, which works perfectly for size 6 beads.  (Steel hooks are sized differently than regular hooks - the higher the number, the smaller the hook.  The opposite of regular hooks.)

I've done my sample using the standard knitted bind off, but you can add beads to pretty much any bind off method.  You can space the beads out any way you like also.

Just begin to bind off.  When you are ready for a bead, you will want to take the stitch from your right needle --  off the needle --!  Don't panic, it's ok for a stitch to be without the needle for a moment.  I like to pull the loop up a bit just so I have a little room to work.  

Then, place a bead onto your crochet hook; grab the stitch with your crochet hook, and finally, slide the bead onto the stitch.  Place the stitch back onto the right needle and pull gently to tighten it back up.

That's it!  Continue binding off and adding beads.  You'll finish as you would when binding off without beads - on the last stitch, cut the yarn, pull the tail through.

A super easy way to add a little something extra to your bind off!   Here is the video.

Happy Knitting!

 

Beaded Cast On

I love beads almost as much as I love my yarn.  Combine the two, and I am over the moon.  Last week, I showed you several methods of pre-stringing beads onto your yarn.  Now that you can do that, you are ready to do the Beaded Cast On!

This is just a simple long tail cast on, with the addition of beads.  You'll want to make sure your tail is long enough to cast on the required number of stitches, and as always, you'll want beads that will fit your yarn.

The beads should be resting on the tail of the yarn, not the working yarn.  You can space the beads out any way you like.

Begin casting on, and when you are ready to add a bead, simply slide one up the yarn until it is against your needle.  Then cast on two, three, however many stitches you want in between the beads.  When you are ready for the next bead, again just slide one up to the needle.

It doesn't get much easier to add a little glimmer to your cast on edge.  Here is a short video.

Happy Knitting!

Pre-Stringing Beads Onto Yarn

I plan on doing some projects where I will need to pre-string beads on to my yarn; a perfect time to share a video on several different ways you can accomplish this.  NO fancy equipment required, you can use a needle and thread, a steel crochet hook, even dental floss.  I have a beaded cast on video coming up, which requires beads to be pre-strung, so if you have never done either, keep these ideas in mind for that video!

Bluebell Scarf

This is my Bluebell Scarf.  It is knit with one hank of my Alpaca Cloud yarn.   I am offering the pattern for this scarf free with the purchase of the yarn.

Finished size is appx. 8 x 47.5, knit with a US Size 5 needle. Written and charted instructions. The yarn is currently available in two colors, Bluebell and Berries and Cream.

You can get more info from my Storenvy shop HERE.

Blocking Your Knits

Before blocking

After blocking

Blocking is like swatching for a lot of knitters - nobody really wants to do it, or understands why it is necessary.  Just look at the pictures above, and that should be reason enough to convince you that you should block your knitting (or crochet, for that matter).

Blocking opens up the stitches, evens them out, and allows you to shape the fabric.  It also makes the fabric drape better and gives it an airier feel.

In the above pictures, you can see what a difference blocking has made.  The lace stitch of the rectangle is visible; the loops of the triangle are more pronounced; and the pentagon actually looks like a pentagon!

While all of my samples were knit with 100% wool (because that is what I knit with about 90% of the time, or another animal fiber), you can and should block other fibers.

I know it can seem like a hassle to take the time to block a lace shawl, when all you really want to do is put it on!  But, if you've spent days, or even weeks, on a beautiful lace shawl, then a little more time to block it isn't going to make much difference -- except that your lace will look absolutely beautiful!

Below are some links with info on how best to block particular fibers (not all fibers may hold up well to wet blocking, or steaming may not be best for another), as well as links to where you can find out more about and purchase blocking materials.  

You really don't have to have a blocking board to pin your item out on, a spare bed or even the floor will do nicely.  So long as it is a place where no cats, kids, or meandering significant others will disturb it, you can pin out your projects just about any place.  

Below is also a video I made, showing three different methods of blocking the above samples: wet blocking for the rectangle, pin and spritz for the triangle, and steam blocking for the pentagon.

Since you will be knitting a swatch anyhow to check for gauge (you are going to swatch, aren't you?), and plan to block your finished item, you should block your swatch also; it's a good time to see what your fabric looks like with the chosen method of blocking.

I am just using pins in this, if I find the time in the future, I will show you blocking wires.  Essentially, you just weave your wires along the edge of the knitting, then place your pins along the inside edge of the wires to block.  Blocking wires eliminate the amount of pins you will need to use along straight edges.

More info on which method to use on which fiber: 

• From Knitty
• From The Purl Bee
• From the TECHknitting Blog
• From Craftsy
• From knitsimple 

Blocking materials:

• Knitter's Block (from coco knits - her website says out of stock, and other sites that sell the mats are back ordered)
• Interlocking Foam Mats - will work fine in place of the Knitter's Block - also check Wal-Mart, Target, etc.
• Blocking Mats from Knitpicks
• Block 'n Roll Blocking Mat or Blocking Board 
• Blocking Wires from Inspinknitty - best blocking wires, I will never use any other kind after trying these
• T-Pins - I am linking to Jimmy Beans here, but you can find these from most yarn sites, or your LYS, or craft stores
• Eucalan Wool Wash
• Soak Wool Wash

 These are not the only products, or the only place to buy products.  I do encourage shopping around, check local craft or yarn shops, ask around on knitting boards, etc. 

Finally, here is the video.

Greenbrier Cowl Kit

Woohoo, my first kit is now available!

I love cowls, they are one of my favorite things to knit!   This kit comes with the yarn already wound, the stitch marker, and pattern. And a nice little bag you can tote the project around in while you work on it! All you need is a 24 inch US Size 10 circular needle (or size for gauge) and a yarn or tapestry needle to weave in the ends.  That's it.  

The instructions are written only, no chart - because it is such a simple pattern you will have it memorized right away.

·       Appx. 34 in. circumference at the top

·       Appx. 38 in. circumference at the bottom

·       Appx. 14 in. length

TThe yarn is 100% wool, bulky weight, hand dyed.  Click HERE to purchase.

Sapphires-n-Purls Yarn

Ohhhh, I am selling some gorgeous, soft, smooshy yarn!   Right now I only have a little bit listed to see how it goes.  I will also be adding some kits for sale as soon as I get everything together.  I will have more listed soon!

All of these are hand dyed in a  unique, one of a kind color.  No two hanks will be exactly alike - once they are gone, they are GONE!  I am not keeping my color 'recipes', because I love creating new, unique colors with each batch of yarn.  How fun it is to throw some dye into the pot and see what happens!

Check out my store HERE and see what I have!  


A few more pictures of my luscious yarn.  Right now I have some 100% merino wool and a 50/50 baby suri alpaca yarn.  Both of these are lace weight yarns.  So soft and scrumptious, I've loved knitting up samples and hate to see it go!

Pink Lemonaid 100% Merino 

Red Sky at Night 100% Merino

Totally Tie Dye 100% Merino

Silver Lining 100% Merino

Dusty Rose 50/50 Baby Suri Alpaca

Lavender and Mint 50/50 Baby Suri Alpaca

Tipping Points Knitting Needle Review

Here is my little review of these new needles.

These are the new Tipping Points from Susan Bates, and the cool part is, you get three different tips for each needle size.  There is a Sharp, Medium, and Blunt tip that you can change out depending on the yarn you are using, or whatever your preference is.

Pros:
Easy to change tips
Smooth join
Light weight

Cons:
Expensive
Too much 'stuff' to keep track of - all those tips, the rubber grip, and locking key
No organizer/carrying case available
A bit of a nuisance getting them in and out of the box they come in
Tips tend to come loose during use


You will shell out $24.99 to $29.99 for each needle, depending on what size you buy.   Each needle comes with the three tips, a locking key, and rubber grip to loosen/tighten the tips.  These ten inch needles come in a variety of colors, and are made of anodized aluminum.  The locking key and rubber grip is to keep the tips from coming loose while in use, however, for me, I find they come loose regardless of how tightly I've screwed them on.  I've tightened the tips with and without the rubber grip - no difference.  It's no big deal to tighten them as I go; I don't know if it is just how I hold and use them, or if they tend to come loose as a general rule.

I like them ok, and think they make a good addition to any die-hard knitter's collection.

I've used these in a few of my recent stitch videos -  Wavy Rib or Feather and Fan for example.

I have only seen these at Jo-Ann's, or you can buy online HERE.   Keep an eye out for coupons to use at Jo-Ann's - I got mine at 25% off, so the cost wasn't too bad.

Newsletter

Hi, Knitters!  I have decided to send out a monthly newsletter!  Nothing fancy, it will be sent at the end of each month, and show all stitches I have posted for that month.  If I have also released free or paid patterns, I will link those as well.  Perhaps a knitting tidbit or two on occasion.  If you would like to sign up, you may do so using the sign up in the right column of the blog.  The first one will be sent at the end of August 2013.