Spring and Summer 2012 Knitting Magazines

Here is a list of the magazines I have recently purchased.  You can find links to the websites for all of them up on the "Magazines" tab at the top of the blog where you can subscribe, purchase back issues and more.

• Simply Knitting - March, Issue 90 - Comes with super cute needle gauge in the shape of an owl!
• The Knitter - Issue 41 - Jane Sowerby Cowl on the cover looks absolutely gorgeous, as well as the Louisa Harding free bonus patterns!
• Debbie Bliss Spring/Summer 2012 - Beautiful lace and color work in this issue.  Lots of beautiful projects as always.
• Your Knitting Life (formerly Knitting today!) - April/May 2012 - Has some cute Easter kiddie knits and Mother's Day projects
• Make it this Weekend from Creative Knitting - Spring 2012 - Gorgeous Kara Gott Warner design, the Stuyvesant Shrug in this issue as well as a very nice knit by Faina Goberstein, the Calypso Capelet, based on a traditional Orenburg shawl technique
• Love of Knitting - Spring 2012 - Has some nice spring sweater patterns, as well as a cute pair of socks designed by Kristin Hansen called Snowmelt Socks and pretty Stained Glass Wrap designed by  Ellen Liguori
• Knit 'n Style - June 2012, Issue 179 - the Oak Leaves Shawl by Vera Sanon is my favorite, there are also some sweater patterns and a dress to knit, if you have the time and are so inclined
• Knit Now - Issue 4 - Lovely lace capelet, beaded socks and some quick and easy hats are among the projects in this issue 
• Sandra Knit Trends - No. 5 - Filled with lots of gorgeous sweaters, lace and color work

OK, that is going to wrap it up for what's in my magazine stack this time around.  Happy reading!

Converting Flat Stitch Patterns for Round Knitting

This is just a little tutorial I put together to help you out if you would like to knit something in the round, but aren't sure how to get the stitch pattern to work out.  I will be perfectly honest - this is not an easy thing for me!  It does take me a little while before I "get it" with some stitch patterns.  So, you are not alone if you aren't able to convert stitch patterns easily.  I do get a thrill when I finally figure out some of the trickier ones, which is what makes me keep trying different patterns.  Practice makes perfect - so don't get discouraged if something doesn't work out the first time.  Keep trying!

Of course I did not come up with this information on my own.  This all can be found in Barbara Walker's Second Treasury of Knitting, as well as various other places on the web.  Also, Margaret Radcliffe has a new book due out in just a few short weeks, called Circular Knitting Workshop: Essential Techniques to Master Knitting in the Round.  I pre-ordered this back in December and have been so anxious to get it, I keep checking to see if maybe it will be released sooner!  This book is supposed to have information on converting stitch patterns for knitting in the round, which is the reason I want it.

Below are instructions along with a few stitches for you to try out to get your needles going if you have never converted flat to round knitting.  You can print this tutorial out so you can have it in your hands - which I find is a lot easier than having to constantly looking at the computer.  There is also a free hat pattern using Star Stitch for you to print out too.  Last but not least, there is a video briefly going over the tutorial and I will show you the stitches given in the tutorial.

I hope this tutorial is helpful, and that you like the hat pattern.  Happy Knitting and Enjoy!

Converting Flat Stitch Patterns for Knitting in the Round

Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2012 and Piecework March/April 2012

   

I recently received both of these magazines in the mail!  You can click the images above for more info, or visit the websites via the links in the "Magazines" tab at the top of the blog.

Interweave Spring 2012

This arrived in my mail box not long ago.  I can't wait for the weekend to wrap up in a blanket with a cappuccino and read it from cover to cover!

Quite Contrary Scarf Pattern

I am pleased to offer this lovely scarf pattern for sale over on Craftsy!  Click HERE to go to the pattern.  It is $3.50 to download the pattern.  The scarf is knit with Cascade Ultra Pima, which is a soft, luxurious 100% cotton yarn that comes in a rainbow of beautiful colors.  The color pictured is Periwinkle.

There is also a video to help with some of the techniques used in the scarf you may not be familiar with.

Pick Up and Knit or Purl

I thought I would do a brief post about how to pick up and knit stitches, since the technique is used on the Quite Contrary Scarf to add ruffles.  Pictures and a short video follow.

You will see this instruction in sock knitting when working on the heel, or perhaps along the cast on or bind off edge of a scarf to add ruffles, or along the long edge to make a hooded scarf.  There are other instances when you may need to pick up and knit, of course.

While you can pick up along any knitted edge, I find it easiest to use the crochet cast on if I will be picking up along the cast on edge, and slip the first stitch of each row if stitches are to be picked up along the sides.  A standard knitted bind off will be just fine if you need to pick up along the cast off edge.

I recommend always inserting your needle under two strands, if possible, for more stability; you can just pick up under one strand of yarn though.  Since the new yarn you are picking up is not anchored to anything, I always wind the tail end around one of my fingers to hold it in place until a few stitches have been knit.  On the return row, the loop is going to be loose; simply pull to tighten it up and knit the tail along with the working yarn into the first couple of stitches to help keep it in place.

To pick up and knit, hold the yarn as you would when you normally make a knit stitch.  Insert your right needle from front to back under the first two strands as near the edge as you can get, wrap the yarn around the needle as normal and pull it through.  Continue picking up as many stitches as directed by the pattern.

To pick up and purl, make sure the yarn is in front of the work, and  insert the needle as you normally would when purling, from back to front and wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull yarn through.  Continue picking up as many stitches as directed by the pattern.

Written word is not often clear.  Here are some pictures and a video.  Hope this helps!

This is my cast on edge.  I used the crochet cast on which gives a clean edge that is easy to pick up.  The highlighted loops are where you want to pick up.

A close up of the picked up stitch

Wrap the yarn as you normally would - this picture is a knit stitch.  You would simply hold the yarn in front and make a purl stitch if the directions say to pick up and purl.

The yarn has been pulled through - the stitch has been picked up and knitted.

This is just a picture once all of the stitches have been picked up.

This is a picture of a picked up stitch along a non-slipped side of the fabric.  It is much easier to pick up slipped stitches - a slipped stitch edge looks like the crochet cast on edge above.  

Pittsburgh 2012 Knit and Crochet Festival

I had a great time yesterday!  So glad I was able to go.  I got some beautiful yarn that I can't wait to use.  I also got two Japanese Stitch books that I have been drooling over for quite some time now.  If you'd like to see pictures of the show and yarn I got, go here to my FaceBook page.  (There are other pictures in this album, for some reason I keep getting an error when I try to move them to the Knitting album)

Lacy Ruffle Scarf

Lacy Ruffle Scarf

Knitting Ruffles

There are many different types of ruffles that you can add to your knitting in many different ways. I'm just going to cover a few simple ruffles here. If you like ruffles, you may want to check out Knitting on the Edge by Nicky Epstein















First up is the simplest and most basic ruffle. It is just a gentle ruffle - nothing too frilly or over the top.  

All you have to do is cast on twice as many stitches as you plan to use for your main pattern. Knit a few rows - I like the look of a stockinette ruffle, but you can certainly use garter stitch if you like; or experiment with different stitches such as seed stitch.  After a few rows, you will need to decrease. Just work a row of K2tog - or P2tog even. So for instance, if you plan to work with 10 stitches and you've cast on 20, you will be removing 10 stitches on the decrease row and be left with the 10 you need for your project. 

Next is a more ruffly ruffle.  This one simply expands on the above idea. Cast on three times as many stitches as you plan to use for your main pattern, work a few rows, then decrease. You can simply work a row of K3tog or P3tog as the decrease, or you can flex your knitting brain and calculate how to work the decreases over the next two rows instead of just one. Knitting or purling 3 together can be a little tight/tricky, so you may opt for spreading the decreases out over two rows. For instance, let's again say you want to work with 10 stitches. You have 30. You could work the decreases this way: Next row, *K1, K2tog* along the row. This should leave you with 20 stitches. Next row, K2tog across the row, and you should have left the 10 stitches for your main pattern. 

Finally, you can pick up and knit along the edge of a finished piece to make the ruffle. You want to add the ruffle to a finished edge, not live stitches. Ruffles need a nice, firm edge to hold on to. If you add a ruffle to live stitches, the ruffle will spread the fabric out. 

Say you are knitting a scarf and want to add a ruffle to each end after the fact. To make the picking up easier, you may want to use the crochet cast on so that the cast on stitches are clearly defined and easy to pick up. Your standard knitted bind off also created a nice edge easy for picking up and knitting. I'm sure there are other cast ons and bind offs that will give you a nice edge to pick up, but since I typically just use the ho-hum knitted bind off and crochet cast on or long tail, I couldn't give an example of any others. 

In this particular sample, I picked up 14 stitches along my cast on edge, then knit a few rows in stockinette, then increased big time. I knit into the front and back of each stitch in the next row, as well as making a yarn over between each stitch, totaling 42 stitches. I next worked a plain row and then bound off.  This gave me a very ruffly, eyelet edge. 

You can knit the ruffle as long as you like, but the longer it is, it will turn to a flounce as opposed to a ruffle. It's really all a matter of personal taste.  So get out your yarn and needles and start playing. You might like the same method of making a ruffle in one type of yarn but not another.  Experimenting is part of the fun of knitting. 

Here is a video of the ruffles in this post.  Happy Knitting!

3 Needle Bind Off

 The Three Needle Bind Off is a great technique which joins sets of live stitches.  You can use it to bind off and join shoulder seams, among other things.   Perhaps you would like to use a particular stitch for a scarf, and would like each end of the scarf to look the same.  For instance, a lacy heart motif where the hearts face the same direction, would look better if you knit until the scarf is half as long as you want it to be, and then knit the other half, and join them using the 3 needle bind off.  This way, your scarf would look exactly the same on both ends, instead of the hearts being upside down on one end.  This is a great way to join two pieces of a scarf where a ruffle is knit on at the beginning of the fabric.  By knitting the pieces separately and then joining them in the middle, each end of your scarf will have a perfectly matching ruffle.

This technique requires a third needle in the mix.  If you don't have a third needle the same size as the one you used to knit your fabric, a size larger may be used, which will help keep your seam from being too tight and puckering the fabric.  Or, you can use a smaller needle to hold the stitches from the first piece of knitting, so that your second needle is freed up to knit the second piece and do the joining.  A more fiddly way is to place the live stitches onto a stitch holder, and then before doing the 3 needle bind off, slip them back to your second needle, then use a larger needle to bind off.  Whichever way you feel most comfortable is the way you should do it.

You will get a nice, neat invisible seam on the right sides of your fabric using this technique -  or, it can be used for decorative purposes on the right sides of the fabric.

For an invisible seam on the right sides of the fabric, you will want to make sure that the right sides are facing each other for the join.

To make the seam visible, make sure that the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other for the join.

Make sure that you have an equal number of stitches on each needle to bind off, also.

Below is a picture of two pieces of garter fabric that have been joined using the 3 needle bind off

And here is a little sample of stockinette fabric that has been joined

I accidentally deleted the back side, showing the neat seam - you can get a look at it in the video though.

References used: Knitty Fall 2006 - Techniques with Theresa

Pittsburgh Knit and Crochet Festival

Join a New Ball of Yarn

Yarn is Cascade 220

 How great is this join?!  Simple and easy to do - you can use any yarn, too.  Other than the Spit Splice, or Felted Join, this has to be my favorite method of joining a new ball of yarn.  Rather than still photos, I am just doing the video on this one.  If you haven't tried this yet, you must. You will need a yarn or tapestry needle to do this, and about 30-60 seconds.  That's it.

In the picture above, I used two different colors just for ease of demonstration, but most likely you will be using the same color of yarn.  Even if you are using two different colors, once you've knit the join area, it really blends in well with the fabric and you will be hard pressed to tell where the join is once it is done.

Hope you like it.  Happy Knitting and Enjoy!

Vanna's Choice Contest 2012

If you would like to enter the contest, check out the link below for details.  Hurry, the deadline is February 1, 2012.

Lots of prizes - top prize is a trip for two to meet Vanna and a chance to win $100,000.00!

4th Annual Vanna's Choice Contest - 2012

Knit a Potato Chip Scarf - Flutter Scarf

Flutter Scarf in Mongolian Cashmere, 2 Ply from Jade Sapphire.  I used the color Candy Girl.  - Free Pattern is below.  Want more ruffles?  Check out my Amazing Curly Scarf!

Potato Chip scarf, spiral scarf, ruffle scarf - whatever you call it, this scarf is girly and cute.  The first time I saw this type of scarf was in a yarn shop in New Jersey a couple of years ago.  I was looking at it, trying to figure out how it was done.  The shop owner said it was done with short rows.  I had only briefly played with short rows at that point, and wasn't really that sure how to knit something using short rows. I was afraid to ask, and too cheap to purchase the pattern.  I have now sort of figured out short rows, and came up with this scarf.

There are many ways to make a potato chip scarf.  Below I have some links so you can see some of the different methods - they are really all very similar and produce a scarf that looks like mine.

Knitting short rows creates wedges, which in turn creates the ruffles, or waves, or potato chips on the scarf.  This scarf does spiral, but not quite as much as the Amazing Curly Scarf pattern I posted a while back.  I did not wrap my stitches before turning, however you may do so if you like.  You can find more info on short rows and wrapping and turning here if you don't know how.  

For my scarf, I started out by knitting a small number of stitches, then worked up to a larger number before knitting all the way across to work the other side.  I left one stitch up the middle which is only knit on the full row - it is left unworked as I knit the wedges on the sides.  Some patterns use over lapping wedges, others do not have a middle, unworked stitch.  Some start out working more stitches and then wind down to a fewer number before the full row.  I recommend playing around and trying different methods to see what you like in whichever yarn you choose to use.  Keep in mind that your ruffles will not appear right away - you will be a good several inches in on the scarf before you begin to see the ruffles.   And, when you bind off, the scarf will shape itself to match the cast on edge.  I like to refer to the edges as bows, because that's what they look like to me.

LINKS

Rustic Potato Chip Scarf
Potato Chip Scarf
Helix Scarf



Here is a video to give you the general idea of knitting potato chip scarves.  Enjoy!

Wrap and Turn Short Rows

Short Rows confused me for a very long time.  I played with them a few times, but the 'wrap and turn' didn't make any sense to me; and then picking up those wraps?  Forget it.  Turns out, wrapping the stitches and picking up those wraps is really not necessary.  Most knitters do it to help avoid holes in their fabric.  As I was knitting the Flutter Scarf (which is all short rows), I did not wrap my stitches.  I found that I really didn't have issue with any holes, at least not big gaping holes I imagined would happen without wrapping before turning.

There are many different types of short rows, and each particular method may be done differently by each knitter.  The Wrap and Turn method is the only one I have used thus far, but I am interested in learning some of the other methods.  Below are some links to other types of short rows, as well as a video on how I do the wrap and turn.  I hope this helps.  If you know of other ways to work short rows, feel free to post a comment!

The basic idea on short rows is, knit (or purl) the designated number of stitches, and then turn and work those same stitches again.  You will have unworked stitches left on the needle.  Continue knitting and turning as your pattern directs.

If you want to wrap your stitch before turning:

On a Knit side:  Leave the working yarn at the back of the work, slip the next stitch on the left needle purlwise to the right needle, bring the working yarn to the front of the work, slip the stitch back to the left needle, turn and continue knitting - your yarn should be in front of the work, assuming your next row is a purl row.  Don't pull the yarn too tightly around the stitch - you just want to wrap it in a hug, not strangle it to death.   To hide the wrap, you need to knit it together with the stitch it is wrapping.  When you reach the wrapped stitch, insert the right needle into the wrap and then into the stitch and knit them together.  It may be easier to do this if you put the wrap onto the left needle beside the stitch.

On a Purl side: Leave the working yarn at the front of the work, slip the next stitch on the left needle purlwise to the right needle, bring the working yarn to the back of the work, slip the stitch back to the left needle, turn and continue knitting - your yarn will be at the back of the work, assuming your next row is a knit row.   To hide the wrap, you will again need to purl the wrap and the stitch it wraps together.  I find it easiest to slip the wrapped stitch to the right needle, pick up the wrap with the left needle, then slip the stitch back to the left needle and purl them together.

LINKS:

Japanese Short Rows: if Nona Knits then you can too
German Short Rows and W&T:  from Ravelry
Short Row info of all kinds: from TECHknitter
Making and Common Uses: from Knitpicks

The reason I decided to make this video is because short rows are how my potato chip scarf is knit (Flutter Scarf pattern is here on the post after this one).  Other than just messing around and trying to figure things out, this is the first project I have used short rows on.

Here is my video:

I-Cord on Straight Needles (Single Points)

Yes, I am a little I-Cord obsessed tonight.  I have been wanting to share some I-Cord info for a long time now, and today seemed like the perfect time.  And if the three videos I made today weren't enough, I plan a video on using the Embellish Knit for making I-Cord in record time at some point in the near future.  I decided that the Beaded, Spiral and this one were enough I-Cord lessons for one day though!

Usually, you will see instructions for I-Cord on Double Pointed Needles (DPNs) or even circular needles.  Maybe you only have straight needles, or "single pointed needles", if you will.  Don't despair - you can still knit I-Cord on your straights!

Cast on the required number of stitches

Do not turn the work - instead, slip the stitches onto the other needle, so the working yarn is toward the back end of the needle, instead of near the tip as it would be if you were knitting normally.  

Now, knit the stitches

Do not turn the work - simply slip the stitches back to your other needle as before.  Knit the stitches again.

Keep knitting and slipping your stitches back to the empty needle until the cord is as long as you want it.  Bind off as you normally would, snip the yarn and pull through the last stitch, weave in tails.  

See, I told you it was easy!   

Here is a video.  Enjoy!

Spiral I-Cord

Sample was knit with Lily Sugar n Cream on US Size 6 needles - 4 stitches

I have been thinking about spiral/curly I-Cord for some time now.  None of the info I found (like HERE) was what I was looking for.  The curl was produced after the length of the cord had been knit - when I bind off, I like that to be the end!  I am not too fond of binding off and still having something left to do (seaming, anyone?).  You can even do a mini version of my Amazing Curly Scarf to make spirals - I believe this is the method in Knitting Over the Edge.  But I didn't want that look either.  So, this morning I got out some yarn and needles, and played around until I came up with this method.  I am not saying I am the first to do it like this, because I am sure someone else out there has done this before me, but I didn't find any instructions for spiral I-Cord during my search that was like this.

It is very simple to do and I willingly admit that I am darn proud of myself for having an idea that actually works!  So, without further ado, here is what I did.  I am assuming that you already know how to make the standard I-Cord by the way.

Cast on 4 stitches - you can use either DPNs or a circular needle

Slide stitches to the other end of the needle as normal and knit all stitches
Row 2 - Knit 2, Slip 1, Knit 1
Row 3 - Knit 2, Slip 1, Knit 1
Row 4 - Knit all stitches

Repeat Row 2 - 4 until cord is the desired length

What to do with the curly I-Cord?  Maybe replace the standard fringe on a scarf with these nifty spirals, or top off a hat.  You can even add beads - I have a tutorial on that too. You are only limited by your imagination.

This is by no means the only way to knit a spiral cord.  I encourage you to play around with different yarns and needle sizes, and even a different number of stitches.  Perhaps add another row or two where the stitch is slipped - heck, slip two stitches.  You may come up with a better curling cord.  If you do alter this "pattern", I would love to see what you come up with!

Here is a brief video of the technique.  Enjoy!

Beaded I-Cord

If you are looking for a way to add some pizzazz to your I-Cord, beads might be the answer you are looking for.  Here are two ways to add beads to your I-Cord.

I suggest pre-stringing the beads, since I-Cord is fiddly enough as it is.  Having the beads on your yarn from the start is more convenient.  Also, if you are following a pattern you will place the beads as directed by the pattern.  Otherwise, put them where you like, as many or as few as you like.  

Method One:

When you reach the point where you would like to have your bead, slide the bead up the yarn and to the needle.  Bring the yarn to the front of the work, and slip the next stitch on the left needle purlwise.  Take the yarn back to the back of the work, and continue knitting.  (I find it helpful if I hold the bead in place with my thumbnail at this point)

Repeat this where ever you would like to place a bead on your I-Cord.

Method Two:

When you reach the stitch where you would like to have a bead, insert the right needle into it, but don't knit it just yet.  Next, slide your bead up the yarn to the needle.  Now, make the knit stitch, pulling the bead through the stitch along with the yarn.  Continue knitting.  On the next row when you get to the stitch with the bead on it, slide the bead up over the needle and to the back of the  stitch.  When you make the new stitch, the bead should pop out to the front of the I-Cord.

Here is a video demonstrating both of these methods.

Catskill Merino Sheep Farm

Check out all of the beautiful yarns from Catskill Merino Sheep Farm.  If you happen to be in or around Union Square in NY City on a Saturday, between 8 AM to 6 PM stop in and see them.  They are there every Saturday of the year.  Below are some pictures from their stand from December 3rd.

 
 
 
 

Finding the end of your yarn

Just thought I'd share this tip, incase you have issues finding the beginning of your yarn like I do.  Sometimes this works like magic, but other times I still wind up having to pull out half of the inside of the skein and end up with a huge pile of yarn barf!   I've had success on larger skeins as well as smaller ones.  Sometimes the yarn just does not want to cooperate though.

If there is a false tail sticking out (you know what I mean, the one that you are happy to see because you think it is the tail you need to start knitting, but when you pull on it, it won't budge), just pull it out and tuck it into the ball band.  Then, put your index fingers into each end of the skein and twist them.  If you are lucky, the beginning tail of your yarn will find your finger and easily pull out of the center of the skein.  And because I had a few spare minutes, I made a video  :0)

Sapphires-N-Purls Podcast Episode 14!

Well, I finally had a chance to record a new show!  It has been quite a while.  This episode was filmed outdoors, so I do apologize for the background noises.

In this episode, I show you the magazines waiting for me to read them, some new yarns I have, and the Martha Stewart Knit and Weave Loom Kit.

There are links to all of the magazines in the "magazine" tab at the top of the blog.  Here they are, in no particular order:

Sabrina Fashion Knits
Sandra Knit Trends
Simply Knitting
Knit Now
Knit Simple and Knit Simple Plus Knits
Knit 'n Style
Interweave Knits
Knit Today
Knit Scene
Knitting Today
Love of Knitting
Australian Knitting
Vogue Knitting
Jane Austen Knits

Linking this one directly:
Woman's Weekly Best of Our Knitted Toys

The Amazing Curly Scarf Pattern that I wear in this episode is a free pattern on the blog, along with a video on knitting spiral scarves.

Lily Sugar 'n Cream scented yarn.  Nice!  None of the fragrances were overwhelming or stinky to me.  The Camomile and Aloe Vera were the ones that appealed to my nose the most today.  The fragrance will of course wash out eventually, but how nice to make a few dish cloths, tie them up with a ribbon and give to a friend?  Just my opinion of course!  Although I found all of the scents to be light and fresh, someone sensitive to fragrances might feel otherwise.  I recommend giving them a sniff yourself if you see them in the store, before buying online.  Today was the first time I have seen them at Michaels; can't find it on their website though!  I've never seen them in my Joann's, but they do sell them on their website.  

You can find out more about Carol's Needleworks and the yarn I got there HERE.


And finally Martha Stewart.  I've always had a love/hate thing with her.  Simply love a lot of her ideas on decorating, cooking and everything else, but hate her attitude sometimes.  I even forgive her for her... ahem... problems in the past.  We all make mistakes, and I am sure the humiliation she suffered was enough to keep her from making the same, or similar, mistakes again.  Anywho,  I suppose the reason I got this knitting and weaving loom is because it seems to be so versatile and has so many possibilities.  I've not done any loom knitting before, but am kind of anxious to expand my knitting horizons.  Does any one own this?  Feel free to let me know what you think, and I would love to see pictures of your finished items.  I will do a more in depth review once I have had a chance to play around with this gadget!

As for  her yarn, however... I will definitely take a pass on that.  I have a brief video from when I was checking out the line at Michaels on my YouTube channel.  I really can't believe her name is on this stuff.  It really isn't all that nice, and you don't get very much yarn.  For the price, I'd expect at least twice as much as what you get.  You can get better quality yarn, and a lot more of it, from some of Lion Brands other lines, as well as other manufacturers.  The Mambo is just ridiculous. 5 - yes, FIVE measly yards, for $5-6??  Seriously?  If I am paying about $1 per yard of yarn, that stuff better be spun from gold!  It would actually make a neat rug, but you'd have to buy so much to get a decent sized rug that I would hang it on the wall as art instead of actually put it on the floor and walk on it.  I don't know what else you would do with Mambo; Lion Brand has a bracelet pattern for it.  Not my style!  The Glitter Eyelash is kind of gaudy - but then I don't much go in for that type of yarn to begin with.  Might be nice for some type of holiday decorations though.  OK, enough ranting on Martha's yarn!  You should of course decide for yourself  :0)

How to Knit a Spiral Scarf

Amazing Curly Scarf - free pattern below.  Want less ruffles?  Check out my Potato Chip Flutter Scarf!

I've knit a few spiral scarves over the years, and they remain one of my favorite knits.  How cool is it that your fabric begins to spiral right before your eyes as you bind off?  And the best part - it is so easy to do!

Also called a corkscrew or potato chip scarf, you can use just about any yarn and needle size you like.  The secret, or trick, to making your scarf spiral is in the increase rows.  That's it!

I do recommend using at least a 32 inch circular needle - you will start out with relatively few stitches and in the end will have hundreds, or even 1,000 stitches that need to fit comfortably on your needles.

All you have to do is cast on a certain number of stitches, let's say 100.  Knit two or three rows; then you will do an increase row to double the number of stitches you started with.  Simply knit into the front and back of each stitch (you could even make YOs if you don't like knitting into the front and back of your stitches) - so if you started with 100 stitches, after the increase row you will have 200.  No need to count to make sure you have exactly double the number.  A few more or less isn't going to make much of a difference.  

Now, knit some more plain rows - however many you knit before, whether it be two or three.  The most I have used between increase rows is three, so while I am sure you could do more, I can't vouch for the looks of the scarf in doing so or the effect this would have on the spiral.

Do another increase row, again doubling the number of stitches on your needles.  

Continue in this manner until you have roughly 800-1,000 stitches.  I say roughly, because the needle size and weight of yarn you use will affect how long your scarf ends up being.  A word of warning though - do remember that as you increase the number of stitches, the length of your scarf will also increase.  One of the first spiral scarves I knit ended up with close to 2,000 stitches, and was about 12 feet long.  That is much too long for most folks!!   Obviously, if you are using a lace weight yarn and small needles, you will need more stitches to get an appropriate length on your scarf; if you are using a larger needle and bulkier yarn, you won't need quite as many stitches.

When you are ready, bind off.  I usually knit one row less than I knit between the increase rows, so for example if you were knitting two rows between increases, knit one row and then bind off.  You can use any bind off you like.  Ta-Da!  You now have a spiral scarf.   (Is this scarf too curly/ruffly for you?  Maybe you will like the Flutter Scarf instead)

Below is a video in which I knit the above scarf.  If you would like to knit the same, go here.

Knitting With Sequins

I've been wanting to add sequins to my knitting for some time now.  When I began searching around for instructions, I found next to nothing!  I did find a snippet from the Knit Simple site, however their instructions were to pre-string the sequins on an auxiliary thread.  I wanted to add them with a crochet hook, like I do beads.   So, after I finally found some sequins, I began playing around to see what method of adding sequins worked best for me.

I had a hard time finding sequins at the craft stores, believe it or not.  I finally found a small bag of multicolored sequins at Michaels.  I also found a website called Cartwrights - where there are more sequins than you can imagine.  All shapes, sizes, and colors from hearts to ghosts and more!  If you are serious about knitting with sequins, then that is where you should go!

You will need a crochet hook small enough to fit through the hole in your sequins, and the yarn you use should fit as well.  If you prefer, you can use a contrasting or complimentary color of yarn that fits your sequins, and knit that along with a thicker yarn.  You could also sew the sequins on later, however that for me seems too time consuming.

Once you have your sequins, yarn and crochet hook you are ready to begin.

Knit to the stitch that you want to put the sequin on.

If working on stockinette stitch:

1: Place the sequin onto the crochet hook (upside down if using cup shaped sequins)

2: Insert the crochet hook into the stitch you want the sequin on, and pull the working yarn through the stitch - essentially you are making a knit stitch with the crochet hook

3: Now continue pulling the yarn through the sequin

4: Place the new stitch onto the left needle, and purl it together with the original stitch

Continue knitting, adding as many sequins as you like.  On the reverse row, when you come to the stitch(es) with the sequin, purl as you normally would.

If working on garter stitch:

Follow steps 1 - 3 above

4: Place the new stitch onto the left needle, and knit it together with the original stitch

Continue knitting, adding as many sequins as you like.  On the reverse row, when you come to the stitch(es) with the sequin, knit as you normally would.

If any of the sequins want to flip around to the other side of the fabric, give them a gentle tug and straighten them out on the right side.

The above is what works for me.  If you don't like this method, it isn't the only way to knit with sequins.  Play around until you find a technique that works for you.

Here is the video - I hope you find it helpful.  Enjoy!