How to make Pom Poms

These were made with the Clover Pom Pom Maker

If you plan to make a lot of Pom Poms, then you will probably want to invest in some of the hard plastic pom pom makers you find in the craft stores. They are easy to use and come in all different sizes.  I find the instructions that come with Clover's tool a bit lacking, so here is a video.

This pom pom was made using materials you probably have around the house

If you only want to make a pom pom here and there, then it really isn't necessary to purchase a pom pom maker.  All you need to make your own pom pom maker is some cardboard, a pen or pencil, and two circular objects.  One should be a bit smaller than the other.  The size of your circle determines the size of your pom pom.  And you need scissors, of course.

With the larger circle, trace two circles on the cardboard.  Then, place the smaller circle in the middle of the larger one, and trace it.  Cut out each circle using the line of the larger circle.  Then, cut straight up to the line of the smaller circle, and cut that out as well. Finally, all you have to do is place the pieces of cardboard on top of each other, making sure the straight cuts line up.  Wrap your yarn around the forms until they are covered.  The straight cut you made will allow you to easily wrap the yarn around the cardboard.  The more yarn you use, the fluffier your pom pom will be.  When you are done winding, cut the yarn.  You will then need to cut a length of yarn to tie your pom pom together.  But before you can tie it all together, you need to cut it.  Make sure your scissors are sharp, and stick them in between the cardboard and cut all the way around.  Once all of the yarn has been cut, slip the length of yarn between the pieces of cardboard and tie a couple of tight knots.  Remove the cardboard and you have a pom pom !  Trim it up a bit if necessary.  Use the strands you used to tie the pom pom to attach it to hats, scarves or whatever you like.

You could use a plastic lid (from a coffee can, etc.) to make your pom pom forms if you want something a bit more sturdy than cardboard.  

And here is a video on home made pom pom making.  

How to Make a Tassel

Tassel on the left was made with some wool yarn I dyed myself.  Tassel on the right was made with Sugar n Cream cotton yarn.

Tassels are easy to make.  You don't need any fancy equipment, either.

You will need:

1. A piece of cardboard or something else you can wrap your yarn around.  It should be a little longer than you want your finished tassel to be.  That way you can trim up the end without having a shorter than desired tassel.  (I used a piece of folded cardboard to make mine, as you will see in the video, but you needn't fold yours. )
2. Scissors
3. Crochet hook
4. Yarn, of course

To keep things brief here, I am not going to go into great written detail.  Not that it is complicated to make a tassel, but it is much easier to see it being done than read how to do it.   Basically, all you do is wrap your yarn around the cardboard, until the tassel is as thick as you want it.  The more wraps you do, the thicker your tassel will be.  Then, cut a length of yarn, slip your crochet hook under the wraps, pull the length of yarn under them, and tie it a couple of times tightly so that the tassel doesn't come apart. These are the strands you will use to attach the tassel to your project.  Next, cut the wraps on the opposite end from where you tied them together.  The tassel can be used as is, or you can cut another length of yarn, and tie it around the tassel a short distance from the top.  You can see in the picture above where I have tied my tassels.  I like to wrap my yarn a few times around the tassel, but you can just tie and be done.  With your crochet hook, pull the tails from the yarn you used to tie around the tassel underneath itself and voila. Trim if necessary.  To attach your tassel to a hat or scarf, or whatever you like, just use the strands from the top of the tassel to tie them on.  That's it.

So, here is the video.  Happy Tasseling!

Mattress Stitch

This was requested by a YouTube friend.  I personally avoid seams whenever possible.  I just don't like to seam.  When I bind off, I want to be done!  But I do love how this makes an invisible join that you really can't see at all.  Below are still photos, as well as a video of some small stockinette pieces being joined with Mattress Stitch.

My sample was done on stockinette fabric, however this could really be used with any stitch or fabric.  Do keep in mind that you should add a couple of extra stitches to the sides of your fabric so that you can seam easily, and you won't lose any width.  Seaming takes away from the width of your fabric - patterns that require seaming should have that fact accounted for, so no need to worry about adding extra stitches if you are following a pattern.  But if you are designing your own pattern, just keep in mind when calculating the size.  

OK, so here we go.

1. Your fabric should be placed with right sides facing.  You will be working in a side to side fashion. 
2. Use the same yarn that you knit your garment with.  To make things easy, you can either reserve a length of tail from your cast on, or bind off, for this purpose.  Or you can simply cut a length of yarn to use instead.
3. Don't seam along the immediate edge of your fabric; instead, move over to the first line of stitches.  You could always move over two lines of stitches, but that will make the back side a bit bulkier. 
4. Be sure that you stay straight as you seam up the fabric.
5. For the sake of clarity, we will say we are starting with the left piece of fabric here, but you may start with whichever piece of fabric you like.  
6. Beginning at the cast on edge of the left piece of fabric, insert your yarn or tapestry needle into the cast-on edge stitch, then do the same on the right piece of fabric.
7. On the left piece of fabric, insert your needle under the first strand of yarn between the edge stitches and the first line of stitches.
8. Repeat on the right piece of fabric.
9. Continue moving left, right, left, right and so on, until you reach the top of your fabric.  Then, insert the needle into the stitch along the bind off edge on both the left and right piece of fabric.
10. Now, gently pull on the tail of your yarn to tighten things up.  Pulling from both ends is easiest for me.  You will see that the yarn you used to sew up disappears like magic.  Don't pull too tightly or your fabric will become misshapen.  Just pull gently until the seam is neat and even.  Weave in the loose ends.

Now, if you are like me, you may be scratching your head and saying "Huh?!" after reading that.  I find visual aids much more easy to understand than the written word.  So, here are some pictures, and the video.

These are the strands that you will be picking up and running your needle and yarn under

Yarn has been inserted into the cast on edge stitches of each piece of fabric

Needle going under the first strand

I have started weaving from left to right, left to right

I have now finished weaving all the way to the top of my fabric, and the yarn has been placed into each stitch along the bind off edge as well

The yarn used to seam has been pulled tight, and I now have an invisible join!  

You can see how beautifully these pieces of stockinette fabric have been joined.  Here is a sample of seed stitch fabric I joined, which is just as nice.

Yarn Over 101

I decided to do a tutorial on yarn overs, since there can (and is) often times a lot of confusion on the topic. When I first began knitting, I was good with the YO - yarn over.  But then I started seeing things like yon, yrn, yfwd... I didn't quite understand what I was supposed to do.  I thought it was a yarn over, but then again, it seemed different. It must be different, otherwise the pattern would just say YO, right?   As a result, I avoided anything that contained these goofy instructions.  Somewhere along the way, I figured out that these were all yarn overs, and the only difference was yon, yrn, etc. were there to indicate how the yarn was treated, depending on whether the next stitch was a knit or purl.  These days, whenever I see any of these directions, I just make a yarn over and don't even worry if I am going over the needle, around the needle or whatever.  I know my working yarn has to be in the front when I purl, and in the back when I knit, and that my yarn will be going over the needle.  So I just throw the yarn over my needle, place it in the correct position, and make my next stitch.  It really is that simple.

I know a lot of knitters are very passionate about this topic.  For me, as I said above, they are all yarn overs, and I don't get too particular what "kind" of yarn over it is.  I just do it.  I knit to relax, and really don't need to stress over a hole in my knitting.

Here is a printable reference guide on yarn overs, including what to do when you forget to make one and what to do when you make one you don't need.  There is also a video which demonstrates everything on the sheet.  I hope this helps anyone who may be as confused as I was.  Happy Knitting!


Yarn Over 101 Reference Guide

Yarn Over 101 by on Scribd

Natural Stitches

Last weekend I visited a yarn shop called Natural Stitches in Pittsburgh Pa.
I wouldn't consider it a very big store, however it is absolutely full of beautiful yarn!  They also have a cozy little area to sit, relax and knit.  They have a reward program too - spend $250 and receive 10% your next purchase.  Almost one entire wall is devoted to Cascade 220 - they have every single color.  So if you are a fan of that yarn, this is the place to get it!  If you are ever in the area, I highly recommend stopping in. Everyone was very nice, and they were able to help me with yarn for a project I am working on now, and will be sharing with everyone soon.  Below are just a few pictures.  As you can see, it is a very neat, clean and well organized shop.  I can't wait to go back!

Online Knitting Classes

Hi everyone!  I thought I would list a few links to online classes, for those who may be interested.  I personally have not taken any online classes, but have heard from another knitter that they are nice/helpful.

Annie Modesitt's Online Classes
Stefanie Japel's Online Classes

And you can find a number of classes over on Craftsy!

Happy Knitting!

Yarn Sales!

Hello to all my fellow fiber addicts!  Just thought I would share some sales going on right now.  This is by no means all there is, just a little from a couple of my favorite online shops.

From Jimmy Beans:
Ella Rae Milky Soft
Euro Baby Cuddly Cotton
GGH Fiesta
Lana Grossa Alta Moda

From WEBS:
Araucania Panguipulli
Ella Rae Latte
Elsebeth Lavold SensuAl

Until next time, Happy Knitting all!

Entrelac - New tutorial coming soon!

Hi everyone!  I just wanted to take a minute to thank all who stop by and read my little blog.  Also, The Weekly Stitch blog too!  You may not have noticed, but both blogs are now just a .com, instead of the .blogspot.com!

I will soon be posting a tutorial on entrelac knitting.  I will have a free pattern to go along with the tutorial, and a video as well.

I am also working on a couple patterns which will be available for sale in my little area of Craftsy.  I am really excited about these ones!

You can find me on Facebook, Twitter (mainly just for tweeting the new stitch videos) and other places around the web.  I am BibbityBobble over on Ravelry.

I am still doing the podcast - it is now a video which I post to YouTube.

Hope all your knitting adventures are successful.  Come back soon!

Interweave Knits Summer 2012

The latest issue of Interweave Knits arrived in my mailbox today!

Love the shawl on the front - it is the Summer Blooms Shawl, designed by Susanna Ic and knit with Suri Elegance.

Several other very nice projects in this issue, as well as an article on swatching, by Eunny Jang.

Check out the link above to see all of the projects in this issue!

Piecework May/June 2012

The latest issue of Piecework arrived in my mailbox today!

It is the 5th Annual Lace issue!!

There is an absolutely exquisite Russian Triangular Butterfly Shawl, designed by Inna Voltchkova, to knit.  I think this has to be one of the most beautiful pieces of lace I have ever seen!  If you have been reading my blog for a while, you may know that I am not big on large projects - and this would be one of those large projects.  However, I may just have to make an exception.  This is so beautiful!

Also in this issue, Bucks Point Lace article with a Bucks Point Bobbin-Lace Edging to Make, by Jo Ann Eurell.

Reticella Needle Lace to Stitch, by Bronislava Bacilkova.

A Lacy Ribbonwood and Fern Scarf to Knit, by Margaret Stove.

Margaretenspitze (Margarete's Lace), which is a type of hand-knotted lace - article as well as a tutorial on the technique and a flower project, by Marji Suhm.

There is a lot more lace goodness in this issue, so if you love lace, be sure to get your copy!

S-n-P Podcast Episode 15

Hi everyone!  It's certainly been quite a while since I did a show.  Now that the weather is warmer, I can sit outside to record.

Here are the things I talk about in this episode, in no particular order

Magazines (you can find links to each of these in the Magazine tab at the top of the blog)
Filati Handknitting - Home
Filati Pocket
The Knitter
Simply Knitting - free gift - wooden purse handles
Knit Today - free gift - some really sheep shaped yarn bobbins
Knitscene

Hobby Lobby Visit
I recently went to Hobby Lobby for the first time.  I loved their selection of knitting books, and while I typically do not knit with acrylic yarn, they did have some nice yarn also.  There were a few I liked, but in the end only got a few skeins of Andes Alpaca by Yarn Bee, in the color Camino.  I have decided to make my first top down shawl with this yarn.  I also got two pairs of rosewood needles - one having an inlay of mother of pearl on the top.  As you all know, I love my Addi Turbo neeldes, but am quickly becoming fond of the rosewood needles!


Autumn Acorn Cowl
This is my latest pattern, which is available for purchase on Craftsy.  This is a quick knit, using Lighthouse Waves yarn featuring the Acorn Cable stitch.  Even if you have never knit cables before, this is an easy stitch.  There is also a video tutorial of the stitch incase you need help with it.  I know the weather is beginning to warm up, and probably the last thing on your mind is making something to keep you warm.  The mornings and evenings are still rather chilly, and a little warmth around your neck can help keep away the chill.  Also, a lot of offices crank up the AC in the summer, and a cowl is nice to help keep the air off your neck.  And of course, if you make it now, you can have it ready to go when autumn/winter returns.

Project Bags
I've told you before about using those nifty little plastic bags that bras and bed sheets come in to take along a small project when you go on a trip, etc.  I recently purchased some sheets which came in a nice little cloth bag.  The extra pillow cases also come in little bags, which are perfect for a small project, needles, a few notions, and a copy of your pattern.  I love these!  They are soft, pretty and just the right size for carrying along where ever you go!  I got mine at Walmart, but I am sure you can find them in any store that sells sheets.

Longer Stitch Videos
You asked, and now you will receive!  An overwhelming majority of you voted to have longer videos demonstrating cable and lace stitches.  I will still be doing the shorter, less complicated stitch videos, but now will also be including longer videos too.  You can find all of the stitch videos over on The Weekly Stitch.

That is going to wrap it up for now.  You can find me on Facebook and Twitter.  Mostly on Facebook, Twitter is just for when I put up a new video or pattern mostly.  Feel free to send any questions, comments or suggestions to sapphiresnpurls at gmail dot com.

Until next time, Happy Knitting!

Autumn Acorn Cowl

This is my latest pattern.  I chose the name because the colors of the yarn remind me of the beautiful fall colors, and the acorn cable stitch pattern I used.  You are, of course, free to use any color of yarn you like!  Gauge is not critical for this pattern, and feel free to substitute any other medium weight, similar yarn if you are not able to find the one I used.

This pattern uses a yarn called Waves, which is a 70% wool / 30% soy blend.  (Same as Patons SWS, which has been discontinued).

This is a fairly quick knit, and great for keeping the chill away.  You can purchase the pattern over on Craftsy.

Here are some pictures of the blocking and seaming done on the cowl.  Blocking is optional, but I do recommend it to open up the beautiful cable stitch pattern.  You don't need anything special to block the cowl.  I just pinned mine onto a towel on the bedroom floor.  Just be sure you have a place that is out of reach of toddlers, cats and any other curious creatures.

For the seaming up, use any method you like.  I like to sew under the stitches of the cast on and bind off edges, and pull the needle up through the loop of the yarn on the needle. This makes a firm seam that is nice and neat.

Here are the pictures, and there is also a video demonstration of the Acorn Stitch over on The Weekly Stitch, incase you need some help.

Happy Knitting, and Enjoy!

Cowl being blocked

Finished seam on the right side 

Sewing the cast on and bind off edges together

Pulling the yarn through the loop to seam up

Piecework March/April 2012 and Knit Simple Spring/Summer 2012

In this issue, explore traditional tools such as Tambour, Knitting, Crochet, Punch Needle and Flowermaking; Knit a Viking cable beret; Discover the ultimate helper - sewing birds; and finally, Bosnian Crochet.

NOTE:  As of the date of this post, their website is not reflecting the latest issue

This issue features quick and easy knits such as scarves, drop stitches and little girl dresses; Beach coverups; Flower Looms and 5 easy flowers to make - Be sure to enter for your chance to win a Bloom Loom!  Check out the website (link can be found in the "Magazines" tab at the top of the page) for details.

Happy Reading!

Spring and Summer 2012 Knitting Magazines

Here is a list of the magazines I have recently purchased.  You can find links to the websites for all of them up on the "Magazines" tab at the top of the blog where you can subscribe, purchase back issues and more.

• Simply Knitting - March, Issue 90 - Comes with super cute needle gauge in the shape of an owl!
• The Knitter - Issue 41 - Jane Sowerby Cowl on the cover looks absolutely gorgeous, as well as the Louisa Harding free bonus patterns!
• Debbie Bliss Spring/Summer 2012 - Beautiful lace and color work in this issue.  Lots of beautiful projects as always.
• Your Knitting Life (formerly Knitting today!) - April/May 2012 - Has some cute Easter kiddie knits and Mother's Day projects
• Make it this Weekend from Creative Knitting - Spring 2012 - Gorgeous Kara Gott Warner design, the Stuyvesant Shrug in this issue as well as a very nice knit by Faina Goberstein, the Calypso Capelet, based on a traditional Orenburg shawl technique
• Love of Knitting - Spring 2012 - Has some nice spring sweater patterns, as well as a cute pair of socks designed by Kristin Hansen called Snowmelt Socks and pretty Stained Glass Wrap designed by  Ellen Liguori
• Knit 'n Style - June 2012, Issue 179 - the Oak Leaves Shawl by Vera Sanon is my favorite, there are also some sweater patterns and a dress to knit, if you have the time and are so inclined
• Knit Now - Issue 4 - Lovely lace capelet, beaded socks and some quick and easy hats are among the projects in this issue 
• Sandra Knit Trends - No. 5 - Filled with lots of gorgeous sweaters, lace and color work

OK, that is going to wrap it up for what's in my magazine stack this time around.  Happy reading!

Converting Flat Stitch Patterns for Round Knitting

This is just a little tutorial I put together to help you out if you would like to knit something in the round, but aren't sure how to get the stitch pattern to work out.  I will be perfectly honest - this is not an easy thing for me!  It does take me a little while before I "get it" with some stitch patterns.  So, you are not alone if you aren't able to convert stitch patterns easily.  I do get a thrill when I finally figure out some of the trickier ones, which is what makes me keep trying different patterns.  Practice makes perfect - so don't get discouraged if something doesn't work out the first time.  Keep trying!

Of course I did not come up with this information on my own.  This all can be found in Barbara Walker's Second Treasury of Knitting, as well as various other places on the web.  Also, Margaret Radcliffe has a new book due out in just a few short weeks, called Circular Knitting Workshop: Essential Techniques to Master Knitting in the Round.  I pre-ordered this back in December and have been so anxious to get it, I keep checking to see if maybe it will be released sooner!  This book is supposed to have information on converting stitch patterns for knitting in the round, which is the reason I want it.

Below are instructions along with a few stitches for you to try out to get your needles going if you have never converted flat to round knitting.  You can print this tutorial out so you can have it in your hands - which I find is a lot easier than having to constantly looking at the computer.  There is also a free hat pattern using Star Stitch for you to print out too.  Last but not least, there is a video briefly going over the tutorial and I will show you the stitches given in the tutorial.

I hope this tutorial is helpful, and that you like the hat pattern.  Happy Knitting and Enjoy!

Converting Flat Stitch Patterns for Knitting in the Round

Vogue Knitting Spring/Summer 2012 and Piecework March/April 2012

   

I recently received both of these magazines in the mail!  You can click the images above for more info, or visit the websites via the links in the "Magazines" tab at the top of the blog.

Interweave Spring 2012

This arrived in my mail box not long ago.  I can't wait for the weekend to wrap up in a blanket with a cappuccino and read it from cover to cover!

Quite Contrary Scarf Pattern

I am pleased to offer this lovely scarf pattern for sale over on Craftsy!  Click HERE to go to the pattern.  It is $3.50 to download the pattern.  The scarf is knit with Cascade Ultra Pima, which is a soft, luxurious 100% cotton yarn that comes in a rainbow of beautiful colors.  The color pictured is Periwinkle.

There is also a video to help with some of the techniques used in the scarf you may not be familiar with.

Pick Up and Knit or Purl

I thought I would do a brief post about how to pick up and knit stitches, since the technique is used on the Quite Contrary Scarf to add ruffles.  Pictures and a short video follow.

You will see this instruction in sock knitting when working on the heel, or perhaps along the cast on or bind off edge of a scarf to add ruffles, or along the long edge to make a hooded scarf.  There are other instances when you may need to pick up and knit, of course.

While you can pick up along any knitted edge, I find it easiest to use the crochet cast on if I will be picking up along the cast on edge, and slip the first stitch of each row if stitches are to be picked up along the sides.  A standard knitted bind off will be just fine if you need to pick up along the cast off edge.

I recommend always inserting your needle under two strands, if possible, for more stability; you can just pick up under one strand of yarn though.  Since the new yarn you are picking up is not anchored to anything, I always wind the tail end around one of my fingers to hold it in place until a few stitches have been knit.  On the return row, the loop is going to be loose; simply pull to tighten it up and knit the tail along with the working yarn into the first couple of stitches to help keep it in place.

To pick up and knit, hold the yarn as you would when you normally make a knit stitch.  Insert your right needle from front to back under the first two strands as near the edge as you can get, wrap the yarn around the needle as normal and pull it through.  Continue picking up as many stitches as directed by the pattern.

To pick up and purl, make sure the yarn is in front of the work, and  insert the needle as you normally would when purling, from back to front and wrap the yarn around the needle, and pull yarn through.  Continue picking up as many stitches as directed by the pattern.

Written word is not often clear.  Here are some pictures and a video.  Hope this helps!

This is my cast on edge.  I used the crochet cast on which gives a clean edge that is easy to pick up.  The highlighted loops are where you want to pick up.

A close up of the picked up stitch

Wrap the yarn as you normally would - this picture is a knit stitch.  You would simply hold the yarn in front and make a purl stitch if the directions say to pick up and purl.

The yarn has been pulled through - the stitch has been picked up and knitted.

This is just a picture once all of the stitches have been picked up.

This is a picture of a picked up stitch along a non-slipped side of the fabric.  It is much easier to pick up slipped stitches - a slipped stitch edge looks like the crochet cast on edge above.  

Pittsburgh 2012 Knit and Crochet Festival

I had a great time yesterday!  So glad I was able to go.  I got some beautiful yarn that I can't wait to use.  I also got two Japanese Stitch books that I have been drooling over for quite some time now.  If you'd like to see pictures of the show and yarn I got, go here to my FaceBook page.  (There are other pictures in this album, for some reason I keep getting an error when I try to move them to the Knitting album)

Lacy Ruffle Scarf

Lacy Ruffle Scarf

Knitting Ruffles

There are many different types of ruffles that you can add to your knitting in many different ways. I'm just going to cover a few simple ruffles here. If you like ruffles, you may want to check out Knitting on the Edge by Nicky Epstein















First up is the simplest and most basic ruffle. It is just a gentle ruffle - nothing too frilly or over the top.  

All you have to do is cast on twice as many stitches as you plan to use for your main pattern. Knit a few rows - I like the look of a stockinette ruffle, but you can certainly use garter stitch if you like; or experiment with different stitches such as seed stitch.  After a few rows, you will need to decrease. Just work a row of K2tog - or P2tog even. So for instance, if you plan to work with 10 stitches and you've cast on 20, you will be removing 10 stitches on the decrease row and be left with the 10 you need for your project. 

Next is a more ruffly ruffle.  This one simply expands on the above idea. Cast on three times as many stitches as you plan to use for your main pattern, work a few rows, then decrease. You can simply work a row of K3tog or P3tog as the decrease, or you can flex your knitting brain and calculate how to work the decreases over the next two rows instead of just one. Knitting or purling 3 together can be a little tight/tricky, so you may opt for spreading the decreases out over two rows. For instance, let's again say you want to work with 10 stitches. You have 30. You could work the decreases this way: Next row, *K1, K2tog* along the row. This should leave you with 20 stitches. Next row, K2tog across the row, and you should have left the 10 stitches for your main pattern. 

Finally, you can pick up and knit along the edge of a finished piece to make the ruffle. You want to add the ruffle to a finished edge, not live stitches. Ruffles need a nice, firm edge to hold on to. If you add a ruffle to live stitches, the ruffle will spread the fabric out. 

Say you are knitting a scarf and want to add a ruffle to each end after the fact. To make the picking up easier, you may want to use the crochet cast on so that the cast on stitches are clearly defined and easy to pick up. Your standard knitted bind off also created a nice edge easy for picking up and knitting. I'm sure there are other cast ons and bind offs that will give you a nice edge to pick up, but since I typically just use the ho-hum knitted bind off and crochet cast on or long tail, I couldn't give an example of any others. 

In this particular sample, I picked up 14 stitches along my cast on edge, then knit a few rows in stockinette, then increased big time. I knit into the front and back of each stitch in the next row, as well as making a yarn over between each stitch, totaling 42 stitches. I next worked a plain row and then bound off.  This gave me a very ruffly, eyelet edge. 

You can knit the ruffle as long as you like, but the longer it is, it will turn to a flounce as opposed to a ruffle. It's really all a matter of personal taste.  So get out your yarn and needles and start playing. You might like the same method of making a ruffle in one type of yarn but not another.  Experimenting is part of the fun of knitting. 

Here is a video of the ruffles in this post.  Happy Knitting!

3 Needle Bind Off

 The Three Needle Bind Off is a great technique which joins sets of live stitches.  You can use it to bind off and join shoulder seams, among other things.   Perhaps you would like to use a particular stitch for a scarf, and would like each end of the scarf to look the same.  For instance, a lacy heart motif where the hearts face the same direction, would look better if you knit until the scarf is half as long as you want it to be, and then knit the other half, and join them using the 3 needle bind off.  This way, your scarf would look exactly the same on both ends, instead of the hearts being upside down on one end.  This is a great way to join two pieces of a scarf where a ruffle is knit on at the beginning of the fabric.  By knitting the pieces separately and then joining them in the middle, each end of your scarf will have a perfectly matching ruffle.

This technique requires a third needle in the mix.  If you don't have a third needle the same size as the one you used to knit your fabric, a size larger may be used, which will help keep your seam from being too tight and puckering the fabric.  Or, you can use a smaller needle to hold the stitches from the first piece of knitting, so that your second needle is freed up to knit the second piece and do the joining.  A more fiddly way is to place the live stitches onto a stitch holder, and then before doing the 3 needle bind off, slip them back to your second needle, then use a larger needle to bind off.  Whichever way you feel most comfortable is the way you should do it.

You will get a nice, neat invisible seam on the right sides of your fabric using this technique -  or, it can be used for decorative purposes on the right sides of the fabric.

For an invisible seam on the right sides of the fabric, you will want to make sure that the right sides are facing each other for the join.

To make the seam visible, make sure that the wrong sides of the fabric are facing each other for the join.

Make sure that you have an equal number of stitches on each needle to bind off, also.

Below is a picture of two pieces of garter fabric that have been joined using the 3 needle bind off

And here is a little sample of stockinette fabric that has been joined

I accidentally deleted the back side, showing the neat seam - you can get a look at it in the video though.

References used: Knitty Fall 2006 - Techniques with Theresa

Pittsburgh Knit and Crochet Festival

Join a New Ball of Yarn

Yarn is Cascade 220

 How great is this join?!  Simple and easy to do - you can use any yarn, too.  Other than the Spit Splice, or Felted Join, this has to be my favorite method of joining a new ball of yarn.  Rather than still photos, I am just doing the video on this one.  If you haven't tried this yet, you must. You will need a yarn or tapestry needle to do this, and about 30-60 seconds.  That's it.

In the picture above, I used two different colors just for ease of demonstration, but most likely you will be using the same color of yarn.  Even if you are using two different colors, once you've knit the join area, it really blends in well with the fabric and you will be hard pressed to tell where the join is once it is done.

Hope you like it.  Happy Knitting and Enjoy!

Vanna's Choice Contest 2012

If you would like to enter the contest, check out the link below for details.  Hurry, the deadline is February 1, 2012.

Lots of prizes - top prize is a trip for two to meet Vanna and a chance to win $100,000.00!

4th Annual Vanna's Choice Contest - 2012

Knit a Potato Chip Scarf - Flutter Scarf

Flutter Scarf in Mongolian Cashmere, 2 Ply from Jade Sapphire.  I used the color Candy Girl.  - Free Pattern is below.  Want more ruffles?  Check out my Amazing Curly Scarf!

Potato Chip scarf, spiral scarf, ruffle scarf - whatever you call it, this scarf is girly and cute.  The first time I saw this type of scarf was in a yarn shop in New Jersey a couple of years ago.  I was looking at it, trying to figure out how it was done.  The shop owner said it was done with short rows.  I had only briefly played with short rows at that point, and wasn't really that sure how to knit something using short rows. I was afraid to ask, and too cheap to purchase the pattern.  I have now sort of figured out short rows, and came up with this scarf.

There are many ways to make a potato chip scarf.  Below I have some links so you can see some of the different methods - they are really all very similar and produce a scarf that looks like mine.

Knitting short rows creates wedges, which in turn creates the ruffles, or waves, or potato chips on the scarf.  This scarf does spiral, but not quite as much as the Amazing Curly Scarf pattern I posted a while back.  I did not wrap my stitches before turning, however you may do so if you like.  You can find more info on short rows and wrapping and turning here if you don't know how.  

For my scarf, I started out by knitting a small number of stitches, then worked up to a larger number before knitting all the way across to work the other side.  I left one stitch up the middle which is only knit on the full row - it is left unworked as I knit the wedges on the sides.  Some patterns use over lapping wedges, others do not have a middle, unworked stitch.  Some start out working more stitches and then wind down to a fewer number before the full row.  I recommend playing around and trying different methods to see what you like in whichever yarn you choose to use.  Keep in mind that your ruffles will not appear right away - you will be a good several inches in on the scarf before you begin to see the ruffles.   And, when you bind off, the scarf will shape itself to match the cast on edge.  I like to refer to the edges as bows, because that's what they look like to me.

LINKS

Rustic Potato Chip Scarf
Potato Chip Scarf
Helix Scarf



Here is a video to give you the general idea of knitting potato chip scarves.  Enjoy!

Wrap and Turn Short Rows

Short Rows confused me for a very long time.  I played with them a few times, but the 'wrap and turn' didn't make any sense to me; and then picking up those wraps?  Forget it.  Turns out, wrapping the stitches and picking up those wraps is really not necessary.  Most knitters do it to help avoid holes in their fabric.  As I was knitting the Flutter Scarf (which is all short rows), I did not wrap my stitches.  I found that I really didn't have issue with any holes, at least not big gaping holes I imagined would happen without wrapping before turning.

There are many different types of short rows, and each particular method may be done differently by each knitter.  The Wrap and Turn method is the only one I have used thus far, but I am interested in learning some of the other methods.  Below are some links to other types of short rows, as well as a video on how I do the wrap and turn.  I hope this helps.  If you know of other ways to work short rows, feel free to post a comment!

The basic idea on short rows is, knit (or purl) the designated number of stitches, and then turn and work those same stitches again.  You will have unworked stitches left on the needle.  Continue knitting and turning as your pattern directs.

If you want to wrap your stitch before turning:

On a Knit side:  Leave the working yarn at the back of the work, slip the next stitch on the left needle purlwise to the right needle, bring the working yarn to the front of the work, slip the stitch back to the left needle, turn and continue knitting - your yarn should be in front of the work, assuming your next row is a purl row.  Don't pull the yarn too tightly around the stitch - you just want to wrap it in a hug, not strangle it to death.   To hide the wrap, you need to knit it together with the stitch it is wrapping.  When you reach the wrapped stitch, insert the right needle into the wrap and then into the stitch and knit them together.  It may be easier to do this if you put the wrap onto the left needle beside the stitch.

On a Purl side: Leave the working yarn at the front of the work, slip the next stitch on the left needle purlwise to the right needle, bring the working yarn to the back of the work, slip the stitch back to the left needle, turn and continue knitting - your yarn will be at the back of the work, assuming your next row is a knit row.   To hide the wrap, you will again need to purl the wrap and the stitch it wraps together.  I find it easiest to slip the wrapped stitch to the right needle, pick up the wrap with the left needle, then slip the stitch back to the left needle and purl them together.

LINKS:

Japanese Short Rows: if Nona Knits then you can too
German Short Rows and W&T:  from Ravelry
Short Row info of all kinds: from TECHknitter
Making and Common Uses: from Knitpicks

The reason I decided to make this video is because short rows are how my potato chip scarf is knit (Flutter Scarf pattern is here on the post after this one).  Other than just messing around and trying to figure things out, this is the first project I have used short rows on.

Here is my video: