Self Fringing Shawl

 

It has been quite a while since I knit anything due to other crafty endeavors, work, and life in general. Lately I have felt in the mood to pick up yarn and needles again, especially with the cooler weather. I wanted a project that didn't require too much thought, something I could work on while watching TV and something that didn't require keeping track of a stitch pattern.  Garter stitch fit the bill, plus I really like garter stitch.  I have wanted to knit a self fringing shawl since around the time I learned to knit, so that is what I decided I wanted to work on.  I had a few false starts, but finally finished a nice, fringy shawl I am sharing with you below. 

Usually, I prefer to work with natural fibers; for this project, I decided to go with 100% acrylic.  With natural fibers, blocking is essential to open up the stitch pattern.  Since I used garter stitch, I wasn't too worried about having to block to show off a stitch pattern. Plus I don't really have a good place to put down blocking mats to pin out my shawl.  The yarn is machine wash/dry, but I chose to lightly steam it to straighten out the fringe and neaten up some of my uneven stitches a bit, and I also didn't want to tangle my fringe.

The shawl is worked side to side - cast on a few stitches and increase until the required number of stitches is reached, then decrease until only a few remain.  Here you can see where the increase section turns to the decrease section. 

Once you have fastened off the body stitches, you just unravel the remaining stitches to create your fringe.  

In the Supplies list I mention a straight cable needle or DPN for knotting the fringe.  This is completely optional and the purpose it to just help in getting the knot of the fringe close to the body of the shawl.  A little trick I use when I finish sewing (repairing a small rip or tear in clothing) when I tie off the thread, I stick the needle into the loop of thread to help tie it as close to the fabric as possible.  Once you've made the knot, before tightening, place the cable needle or DPN against the body of the shawl, then pull on the fringe and wiggle the knot down to the base of the shawl.  Again, this is completely optional and you may find it more fiddly than necessary.

I weighed my skein of yarn without the ball band, and it was 11 oz.  I used about 6 oz total.  For the cast on and end tail, you can leave these a bit long so you can loop them to make a couple of extra fringes, or you can weave them in as you would normally weave in loose ends.

Supplies:

Yarn: Lion Brand Mandala Bonus Bundle (I used the Meowth colorway) or any #3 weight yarn (light worsted/DK)

Needles: US Size 10 circular - 24" or longer

Notions: stitch marker, yarn needle (for any loose ends you may have), scissors, straight cable needle or DPN (for knotting fringe, optional)

Gauge: 3 sts per inch on steam blocked fabric - not super important for this project

Finished Shawl Size: 

Center to Tip: 28 inches, not including fringe

Fringe: about 3-1/2 inches long

Tip to Tip: 78 inches

Abbreviations:

sts = stitches

kfb = knit into the front of next stitch and knit into the back of next stitch

k2tog = knit next two stitches together

Cast on!

Cast on 6 sts

Increase Section:

Row 1: knit

Row 2: k1, kfb, place marker, k4

Row 3: knit all sts, slipping the marker when you get to it

Row 4: knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, k4

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 100 body stitches - plus 4 fringe sts; you will want to have ended with Row 3.

Decrease Section:

Row 5: knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit 4

Row 6: knit all sts, slipping the marker when you get to it

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until 7 sts remain; you will want to have ended with Row 6.

Finishing:

Row 7: k1, k2tog, slip marker, k4 - 2 body sts remaining

Row 8: knit

Last Row: k2tog, remove marker. Cut yarn and pull tail through last worked stitch. Remove needle from the four remaining sts.

Fringe:

Unravel remaining four sts and knot. Cut if desired or leave as loops.  Weave in any loose ends, 

block as desired.

Here is a video showing the steps for knitting your shawl. Happy Knitting!

Holding two strands of yarn together for a thicker yarn

Some good-to-know info incase you can't seem to find the weight of yarn you need:


The following are approximate equivalents; however, as with all substitutions, you should check to make sure you're obtaining gauge. 

2 strands fingering = one strand sportweight 
2 strands sport = one strand worsted weight 
2 strands worsted = one strand chunky to super bulky weight*

*2 strands of a lighter worsted yarn held together may approximate the thickness of a chunky yarn, while 2 strands of a heavier worsted weight yarn held together may approximate the thickness of a super bulky yarn. Because of this range, again, it is recommended you should make a gauge swatch to test.

(From the Lion Brand Website)

Vanna's Choice Contest 2012

If you would like to enter the contest, check out the link below for details.  Hurry, the deadline is February 1, 2012.

Lots of prizes - top prize is a trip for two to meet Vanna and a chance to win $100,000.00!

4th Annual Vanna's Choice Contest - 2012

How to Knit a Spiral Scarf

Amazing Curly Scarf - free pattern below.  Want less ruffles?  Check out my Potato Chip Flutter Scarf!

I've knit a few spiral scarves over the years, and they remain one of my favorite knits.  How cool is it that your fabric begins to spiral right before your eyes as you bind off?  And the best part - it is so easy to do!

Also called a corkscrew or potato chip scarf, you can use just about any yarn and needle size you like.  The secret, or trick, to making your scarf spiral is in the increase rows.  That's it!

I do recommend using at least a 32 inch circular needle - you will start out with relatively few stitches and in the end will have hundreds, or even 1,000 stitches that need to fit comfortably on your needles.

All you have to do is cast on a certain number of stitches, let's say 100.  Knit two or three rows; then you will do an increase row to double the number of stitches you started with.  Simply knit into the front and back of each stitch (you could even make YOs if you don't like knitting into the front and back of your stitches) - so if you started with 100 stitches, after the increase row you will have 200.  No need to count to make sure you have exactly double the number.  A few more or less isn't going to make much of a difference.  

Now, knit some more plain rows - however many you knit before, whether it be two or three.  The most I have used between increase rows is three, so while I am sure you could do more, I can't vouch for the looks of the scarf in doing so or the effect this would have on the spiral.

Do another increase row, again doubling the number of stitches on your needles.  

Continue in this manner until you have roughly 800-1,000 stitches.  I say roughly, because the needle size and weight of yarn you use will affect how long your scarf ends up being.  A word of warning though - do remember that as you increase the number of stitches, the length of your scarf will also increase.  One of the first spiral scarves I knit ended up with close to 2,000 stitches, and was about 12 feet long.  That is much too long for most folks!!   Obviously, if you are using a lace weight yarn and small needles, you will need more stitches to get an appropriate length on your scarf; if you are using a larger needle and bulkier yarn, you won't need quite as many stitches.

When you are ready, bind off.  I usually knit one row less than I knit between the increase rows, so for example if you were knitting two rows between increases, knit one row and then bind off.  You can use any bind off you like.  Ta-Da!  You now have a spiral scarf.   (Is this scarf too curly/ruffly for you?  Maybe you will like the Flutter Scarf instead)

Below is a video in which I knit the above scarf.  If you would like to knit the same, go here.