Self Fringing Shawl

 

It has been quite a while since I knit anything due to other crafty endeavors, work, and life in general. Lately I have felt in the mood to pick up yarn and needles again, especially with the cooler weather. I wanted a project that didn't require too much thought, something I could work on while watching TV and something that didn't require keeping track of a stitch pattern.  Garter stitch fit the bill, plus I really like garter stitch.  I have wanted to knit a self fringing shawl since around the time I learned to knit, so that is what I decided I wanted to work on.  I had a few false starts, but finally finished a nice, fringy shawl I am sharing with you below. 

Usually, I prefer to work with natural fibers; for this project, I decided to go with 100% acrylic.  With natural fibers, blocking is essential to open up the stitch pattern.  Since I used garter stitch, I wasn't too worried about having to block to show off a stitch pattern. Plus I don't really have a good place to put down blocking mats to pin out my shawl.  The yarn is machine wash/dry, but I chose to lightly steam it to straighten out the fringe and neaten up some of my uneven stitches a bit, and I also didn't want to tangle my fringe.

The shawl is worked side to side - cast on a few stitches and increase until the required number of stitches is reached, then decrease until only a few remain.  Here you can see where the increase section turns to the decrease section. 

Once you have fastened off the body stitches, you just unravel the remaining stitches to create your fringe.  

In the Supplies list I mention a straight cable needle or DPN for knotting the fringe.  This is completely optional and the purpose it to just help in getting the knot of the fringe close to the body of the shawl.  A little trick I use when I finish sewing (repairing a small rip or tear in clothing) when I tie off the thread, I stick the needle into the loop of thread to help tie it as close to the fabric as possible.  Once you've made the knot, before tightening, place the cable needle or DPN against the body of the shawl, then pull on the fringe and wiggle the knot down to the base of the shawl.  Again, this is completely optional and you may find it more fiddly than necessary.

I weighed my skein of yarn without the ball band, and it was 11 oz.  I used about 6 oz total.  For the cast on and end tail, you can leave these a bit long so you can loop them to make a couple of extra fringes, or you can weave them in as you would normally weave in loose ends.

Supplies:

Yarn: Lion Brand Mandala Bonus Bundle (I used the Meowth colorway) or any #3 weight yarn (light worsted/DK)

Needles: US Size 10 circular - 24" or longer

Notions: stitch marker, yarn needle (for any loose ends you may have), scissors, straight cable needle or DPN (for knotting fringe, optional)

Gauge: 3 sts per inch on steam blocked fabric - not super important for this project

Finished Shawl Size: 

Center to Tip: 28 inches, not including fringe

Fringe: about 3-1/2 inches long

Tip to Tip: 78 inches

Abbreviations:

sts = stitches

kfb = knit into the front of next stitch and knit into the back of next stitch

k2tog = knit next two stitches together

Cast on!

Cast on 6 sts

Increase Section:

Row 1: knit

Row 2: k1, kfb, place marker, k4

Row 3: knit all sts, slipping the marker when you get to it

Row 4: knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, slip marker, k4

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until you have 100 body stitches - plus 4 fringe sts; you will want to have ended with Row 3.

Decrease Section:

Row 5: knit to 2 sts before marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit 4

Row 6: knit all sts, slipping the marker when you get to it

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 until 7 sts remain; you will want to have ended with Row 6.

Finishing:

Row 7: k1, k2tog, slip marker, k4 - 2 body sts remaining

Row 8: knit

Last Row: k2tog, remove marker. Cut yarn and pull tail through last worked stitch. Remove needle from the four remaining sts.

Fringe:

Unravel remaining four sts and knot. Cut if desired or leave as loops.  Weave in any loose ends, 

block as desired.

Here is a video showing the steps for knitting your shawl. Happy Knitting!

Seashore Crescent Shawlette

 

I love to spend hours looking through vintage needlework books and old newspapers, and have a decent collection of stitches I have either printed or hand copied over the years, and I even bought a stack of booklets from eBay.  

I came across the Cowrie Shell Insertion some years ago on knitting-and.com and knew that I had to use it for something.  There are a lot of edgings and insertions on this site, and I have seen most of them in my travels through the old stitch books, newspapers and magazines. This particular insertion pattern I believe was originally printed in the late 1800's in Canada in Home Work.  Not all of the the old books have pictures of every stitch, so this site is quite helpful as it has pictures with each stitch, and also uses modern terms.  While the old books always have an explanation of the abbreviations used, it can still be confusing; for example, they use "n" for narrow, which is generally k2tog.   

I decided to use this insertion as an edging for a crescent shawl, my favorite kind of shawl to knit.

I wanted this shawl to wear on vacation this past July; I eagerly cast on at the beginning of the year with a fine lace weight cashmere yarn in a light tan/white blend - perfect for the beach because it reminded me of the sand.  The yarn was so fine, I had to use one of those giant lighted magnifying glasses you wear around your neck to see what I was doing.  It took me forever to make progress.  I had about 50 repeats of the shell pattern done when disaster struck.  I made a mistake and had knit back to fix it, then accidentally dropped several stitches... and it went downhill from there.  So I abandoned the lovely cashmere lace yarn because it was June at that point and I knew I would never be able to finish the shawl unless I used a heavier yarn.

I had gotten a ton of Premier Chameleon from my local Dollar Store a while back and figured it would be perfect.  So I cast on and was able to finish the shawl in time for vacation.  This yarn is supposed to change color in the sun, however it never really did more than get a few very light spots of purple here and there.

This little shawlette measures appx. 9 inches from the center top to bottom curve, and appx. 35-1/2 inches tip to tip.  Just a little something to drape over your shoulders to keep the summer air conditioning at bay.

I used only one skein of the Premier Chameleon yarn, which is 100% cotton, #3 weight (DK/light worsted) 229 yds / 210 m - 3.5 iz / 100 g, and a 32" circular needle in a US size 6.

yo = yarn over

k2tog = knit 2 stitches together

k = knit

p = purl

ssk = slip, slip, knit - slip a stitch knitwise, slip another stitch knitwise, insert left needle into the front of these stitches and knit them together through the back loop

Cowrie Shell Pattern:

Row 1 (ws) : yo, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, yo, p1, k2, p2, k4

Row 2: (yo, k2tog, p2)2x, k1, yo, k1, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2

Row 3: yo, k2tog (k2, p2)2x, yo, p1, k2, p2, k4

Row 4: yo, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k1, yo, k3, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2

Row 5: yo, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, p4, yo, p1, k2, p2, k4

Row 6: (yo, k2tog, p2)2x, k1, yo, k5, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2

Row 7: yo, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, p5, k2, p2, k4

Row 8: yo, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k4, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2

Row 9: yo, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, p3, k2, p2, k4

Row 10: (yo, k2tog, p2)2x, k2, k2tog, p2, yo, k2tog, p2, k2

Row 11: yo, k2tog, k2, p2, k2, p2tog, p1, k2, p2, k4

Row 12: yo, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2tog, p2, k2tog, yo, p2, k2

Work the Cowrie Shell pattern 30 times and bind off.  With the wrong side facing, pick up and knit 180 stitches.

Shawl Body:

Row 1: knit 92 stitches, turn

Row 2: knit 6 stitches, turn

Row 3: knit to 1 stitch before turning point, ssk, knit 2, turn

Row 4: knit to 1 stitch before turning point, k2tog, knit 2, turn

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all stitches of the shawl body have been worked.  Bind off and block.

Below is a video of the cowrie shell stitch.

Scrappy Scarf in Garter Stitch

 

I started this project ages ago and recently found it tucked away in a bag, still on the needles.  I think I had intended for this to be a wrap, but I didn't have as much yarn as I thought I did, so it is now a scarf.  

While I used full skeins of yarn specifically chosen for the project, I am calling it a scrappy scarf, because it is a great project to use up scrap yarn you don't know what else to do with.  I used a mix of smooth worsted weight yarn, loopy boucle and fuzzy mohair, both bulky weight (my own hand dyed yarn from when I had my online shop).  

I cast on 200 stitches using a 42 inch US size 11 circular needle and knit every row.  I cut the yarn after every row, leaving tails about ten inches or so and was careful to leave a long tail when I started each row.  I tied the two beginning/end tails together to create the fringe.  I didn't measure or try to make them all exactly the same length because I was going for a scrappy look.  

While this is garter stitch and technically has no wrong side, I made my color changes so that the purl bumps with the new color was always on the "back".  You can change colors on any side you want if those purl bumps don't bother you. They do look pretty neat.  You can see the purl bumps in this closeup, whereas in the pictures above, the color changes are smoother.

I chose garter stitch, but you really could throw in a few rows of a different stitch, or even use a different stitch for the entire thing.  A mesh stitch scrappy scarf might be pretty.

One thing to keep in mind with a project like this is how you treat the finished project.  You'll want to care for the scarf (or shawl or wrap) based on the yarn used that requires the most care.  For instance, if you use superwash wool and alpaca yarn, you'll want to follow the care instructions for the alpaca yarn.  If you use a machine washable acrylic and a non-superwash wool, you'll want to hand wash because of the non-superwash wool.

Needle size - My size 11 needle worked great for both my bulky and worsted weight yarns.  If you are using yarns with a big difference in weight (bulky and sport for instance) you could switch out your needles depending on which yarn you were using for each row.  Or, whatever the appropriate needle size is for your heaviest yarn can be used for the entire project; it will give the finer yarns a lacier, open look.

You can really use any yarn and needle size that gives you a fabric you like.  Use one or two colors, use a lot of colors.  Use only smooth yarns, use only textured yarns like boucle.  Knit some rows in a larger than called for needle for an open, drapey fabric, knit some rows with a smaller needle size that gives you a firmer fabric.  Use all sock yarn, use all chunky yarn. There are a lot of ways you can experiment with a scrappy project.  I hope this inspires you to pull out all of those balls of scrap yarn you have and make a unique project.

Happy Knitting!

Top Down Garter Stitch Shawls - Triangle

 

At long last, here is the tutorial for a basic, top down triangle garter stitch shawl.  I will show you two ways to knit your shawl, both are equally easy.  

If you'd like to follow along, any yarn and appropriately sized needle will do.  You'll also want a stitch marker to make keeping track of your center stitch easier.

The yarn I used for my little samples is Premier Hipster Cotton.  I got this at my local Dollar Tree a few years ago, and am not sure if Premier still makes it.  It is a #3 yarn (DK/light worsted) and the recommended needle size is US 6, so that is what I used.  

I used DPNs in the video since I only made tiny shawls.  For regular sized shawls, you'll want to use circular needles*.  Circulars come in various lengths, up to 60 inches.  I recommend at least a 32 inch circular; the heavier (thicker) your yarn is, the longer the needle you'll want to use, otherwise things are going to be all bunched up, and in my opinion, difficult to move along the needle, not to mention more prone to dropping off.  Of course you can always use point protectors to keep your stitches safe when you put your work down; I find that when I have a lot of stitches bunched up on a too short needle, sometimes a few will slip off while I am actually knitting.  Point protectors don't help in that case.  *If you are using a very fine lace weight yarn, you can get a decent sized shawl using very long straight needles.

There are of course other ways to go about making a top down shawl - the two methods here are just the basics to get you started if you've never made a top down shawl before.  That said, even if you are an experienced knitter, sometimes you just want a simple project to work on while you binge your favorite show or listen to an audio book, and don't want to have to bother keeping track of too much detail.  A top down garter stitch shawl fits the bill.

You'll want to bind off loosely so the edge has enough stretch for blocking.  There are a lot of stretchy bind offs, choose whichever you prefer.  I show the k2tog tbl bind off (aka decrease bind off, aka several other names) in the video.

I only knit about ten rows for the mini shawls in the video; if you are making a mini practice shawl, you can stop there and bind off.  If you happen to like how your mini shawl looks, by all means continue on until it is as big as you want.

A word about gauge - yes, it is important if you're knitting something that you want to fit correctly like socks and sweaters.  It isn't quite so important for shawls.  You certainly can make a gauge swatch if you want to, especially if you want to make sure you end up with a shawl of a certain size.  I personally never make a gauge swatch when I am making my own shawls. 

Before we get started, I want to share a tip - while it is quite easy to distinguish between the increase rows and plain knit rows, attaching a stitch marker to one side or the other is an easy way to keep track of which side you're working on.  

Abbreviations:

k = knit

yo = yarn over

pm = place marker

sm = slip marker

kfb = knit into the front and back of the next stitch

The first shawl uses the yarn over increase.

Cast on 3 stitches

Row 1: k1, yo, pm, k1, yo, k1

Row 2: knit

Row 3: k1, yo, knit to marker, yo, sm, k1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to desired length, bind off, weave in your ends and block.

The second shawl begins the same way as the first, then uses the knit front/back increase.

Cast on 3 stitches

Row 1: k1, yo, pm, k1, yo, k1

Row 2: knit

Row 3: k1, yo, knit to marker, yo, sm, k1, yo, knit to last stitch, yo, k1

Row 4: knit

Row 5: k1, yo, knit to 1 stitch before marker, kfb, sm, k1, kfb, knit to last stitch, yo, k1

Row 6: knit

Repeat Rows 5 and 6 to desired length, bind off, weave in your ends and block.

Enjoy your new shawl!

Tubular Cast On for 2x2 Ribbing

 

This is an excellent cast on for flat k2 p2 ribbing that creates a neat, tidy edge.  Not quite as flexible as the k1 p1 tubular cast on, but much more flexible than regular long tail cast on.  The tubular cast on eliminates the ridge along the bottom edge created by the regular long tail cast on, and creates instead an edge that resembles fabrics on store-bought items.  If you want to add a more professional look to your knits, this is a great cast on to use.

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color that is the same weight as your project yarn.  You can also use a lighter weight yarn if that is all you have on hand.  Preferably, the waste yarn should be smooth to make removing it easier.

A refresher on 2x2 Ribbing:

**Multiple of 4 - this will result in one edge of the fabric being k2 and the opposite edge being p2

Row 1: k2, p2

Repeat for pattern

**Multiple of 4 + 2 - this will result in both edges of the fabric being k2 

Row 1: *k2, p2; rep from *, end k2

Row 2: *p2, k2; rep from *, end p2

Repeat these two rows for the pattern

Step 1: With the waste yarn, cast on about half the required number of stitches.  You can use any cast on you like.  Knit a row, then purl a row.  At this point, you can cut the waste yarn and introduce your project yarn to continue working in stocking stitch for three more rows.  You should end with a knit row.

Step 2: The next row should be the wrong side of the stocking stitch fabric, and you should easily be able to see the purl bumps created when you began working with the project yarn.  It is these purl bumps that will be picked up as the row is worked - - this is why you want to use contrasting yarns, otherwise it will be rather difficult to see to pick up stitches.  In the picture below, you can clearly see the row of purl bumps in blue yarn on my sample.  

                                                                   

row of purl bumps to be picked up

Begin by purling the first two stitches on the left needle.  Then, with the tip of the right needle, pick up the first purl bump, inserting the needle from the top (as shown below), and place the stitch on the left needle. When placing this stitch on the left needle, the tips of each needle should face each other as you make the transfer (as shown below).  Now knit the stitch.  Pick up the second purl bump and place it on the left needle, and knit it.  You should now have two purl stitches and two knit stitches on the right needle.

                                                                               

picking up a purl bump with right needle

                                                                                 

transferring the picked up purl bump to the left needle

Step 3: Continue purling two and knitting the two picked up bumps until you have two purl bumps waiting to be picked up and one stitch on the left needle.  Pick up and knit the next purl bump and knit; pick up the last purl bump and knit into both the front and the back of this stitch.  Then purl the last stitch on the left needle.  

Step 4: Continue working in k2, p2 ribbing for a few rows, until you have a stable piece of fabric.  

Step 5: Once you have a stable piece of fabric, it is time to remove the waste yarn.  Choose either the tail from the cast on edge or the tail you cut before joining the project yarn, I chose the tail I cut when I was done with the waste yarn in the video.  

                                                                            

 waste yarn can be removed by unraveling either the cast on tail or the tail cut before joining the project yarn

Just give the fabric a gentle tug to loosen things up, and then pull out the loose tail and unravel the stitches until the waste yarn has been removed.  You may find a tapestry needle helpful, especially along the cast on edge.

Now you are ready to continue with your project!

Tubular Cast on for 1x1 Ribbing

 

This is an excellent cast on for flat k1 p1 ribbing that creates a neat, tidy and flexible edge ideal for hats, sock and neckbands.  The tubular cast on eliminates the ridge along the bottom edge created by the regular long tail cast on, and creates instead an edge that resembles fabrics on store-bought items.  If you want to add a more professional look to your knits, this is a great cast on to use.

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color that is the same weight as your project yarn.  You can also use a lighter weight yarn if that is all you have on hand.  Preferably, the waste yarn should be smooth to make removing it easier.

A refresher on 1x1 Ribbing:

**For an even number of stitches:

Row 1: k1, p1

Repeat for pattern

**For an odd number of stitches:

Row 1: *k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

Repeat these two rows for the pattern

Step 1: With the waste yarn, cast on about half the required number of stitches.  You can use any cast on you like.  Knit a row, then purl a row.  At this point, you can cut the waste yarn and introduce your project yarn to continue working in stocking stitch for three more rows.  You should end with a knit row.

Step 2: The next row should be the wrong side of the stocking stitch fabric, and you should easily be able to see the purl bumps created when you began working with the project yarn.  It is these purl bumps that will be picked up as the row is worked - - this is why you want to use contrasting yarns, otherwise it will be rather difficult to see to pick up stitches.  In the picture below, you can clearly see the row of purl bumps in blue yarn on my sample.  

                                                                   

row of purl bumps to be picked up

Begin by purling the first stitch on the left needle.  Then, with the tip of the right needle, pick up the first purl bump, inserting the needle from the top (as shown below), and place the stitch on the left needle. When placing this stitch on the left needle, the tips of each needle should face each other as you make the transfer (as shown below).  Now knit the stitch. 

                                                                               

picking up a purl bump with right needle

                                                                                 

transferring the picked up purl bump to the left needle

Step 3: Continue purling one and knitting the picked up bump until all stitches have been worked. You should end with a purl stitch and an odd number of stitches.

Step 4: Continue working in k1, p1 ribbing for a few rows, until you have a stable piece of fabric.  If your ribbing is to be worked on an even number of stitches, knit into the front and back of the last stitch.  If you have ended up with an even number of stitches somehow and need an odd number, knit the last two stitches together.

Step 5: Once you have a stable piece of fabric, it is time to remove the waste yarn.  Choose either the tail from the cast on edge or the tail you cut before joining the project yarn, I chose the cast on tail in the video.  

                                                                            

 waste yarn can be removed by unraveling either the cast on tail or the tail cut before joining the project yarn

Just give the fabric a gentle tug to loosen things up, and then pull out the loose tail and unravel the stitches until the waste yarn has been removed.  You may find a tapestry needle helpful, especially along the cast on edge.

Now you are ready to continue with your project!

Knitted Embellishments

 

Something a little different.  I have really gotten into making cards the past few years.  Sometimes I like to combine that with knitting.  

Double Decrease - P3tog

 

P3tog (purl three together) is a double decrease that presents as right leaning on the right side of the work.  It can be a bit fiddly getting your needle into three stitches at once; needles with a pointy tip can be helpful, as can using a yarn made from fiber that has elasticity (wool).  Scooting the stitches near the tip of the needle can also help.

An easy alternative is to slip two stitches purlwise to the right needle, purl the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the purl stitch.

Neaten the last bind off stitch

 

Often the last bind off stitch looks sloppy.  No worries, you can easily neaten up that last stitch.

Work until there is just one stitch left to bind off.

Slip the last stitch to the right needle.

With the left needle, pull up the stitch in the row below from the back and keep on the left needle.

Slip the last bind off stitch back to the left needle, then knit it together with the stitch pulled up from below.

Pass the stitch over as normal, cut the tail and pull through last stitch.

Give the tail a gentle tug to snug things up.

No more sloppy bind off.

Estimating Tail Length for Long Tail Cast Ons

 Here is a brief video showing how to estimate the length of yarn you will need to do a long tail cast on.  

New Cast On Video - Twisted Loop

Twisted Loop Cast On creates a very flexible cast on edge.  Use it for top down socks, necklines or anywhere you need stretch.  Also, since you're working from the ball yarn to form the stitches on the needle, there is no worry about running out of yarn before you have all of the stitches you need cast on!

Tilbrook Crescent Shawl - New Pattern

My new shawl pattern, Tilbrook, is now available.  

You can get this as a kit, or just the pattern.

This is for an advanced knitter; it uses 2 skeins of my Merino Dream fingering weight yarn and beads!  There are two different kinds of lace separated by a lateral braid, then easy short row shaping for the body.

The kit comes with yarn, beads, a pack of SOAK, digital pattern, plus a special discount.

Here is more info, or you can hop over to the shop to check out the details:

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

• Short rows
• Working with beads
• Cast on at beginning of the row
• knit/purl, k2tog, k3tog, yarn over, ssk, slipped stitches, psso, knit back loop

You will need:

• US Size 6 36" or longer circular needle
• 7 oz (200 gr) / 980 yds (896 m) of fingering weight yarn (2 skeins Merino Dream)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends.
• 236 Size 6 beads
• No. 8 (0.90 mm) steel crochet hook for placing beads

Vandyke Lace

Sample knit with sport weight yarn on US 10 needles

Multiple of 3

Row 1 (RS): *k1, (yo) twice, k2tog

Rows 2 and 4: purl, treating each double yarn over as a single stitch (purl first yo, then drop it and the second yo off left needle)

Row 3: *k2tog, (yo) twice, k1

Repeat these four rows for the pattern.

Happy Knitting!

Black Friday Goodies

All of the paid digital patterns in my shop are just $1 - good today ONLY, Friday November 25, 2016.

Through Sunday November 27, 2016 the code YARNLOVE gets you10% off your entire order.

That means if you buy a pattern for $1, and use the discount code at checkout - your pattern is only 90 cents!  Can't beat that, can ya?

Easy Chevron Lace Cowl Kit

This cowl is worked in the round in a simple, attractive Chevron Lace pattern using my popular Merino DK base.  Merino DK is an incredibly soft, squishy 100% Superwash Merino wool.

Size: Appx. 42" circumference x 13" tall after blocking

Skill Level: Easy/Advanced Beginner

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

Working in the round, knit stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip-slip-knit, purl stitch

You will receive:

• Digital pattern and 2 skeins of Merino DK

You will need:

• US Size 8 circular needle, 24"
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle/crochet hook for weaving in ends.
• Blocking mat, wires/pins, wool wash or gentle soap - you can pin your project out onto the floor or a bed, or anywhere it won't be disturbed while drying if you don't have mats.

The pattern is completely written out, and a chart is included for the Chevron Lace.

Once your order has been processed, you will receive an email with a link to download the pattern.  If you do not get a download link, or it doesn't work, email sapphiresnpurlsknitting@gmail.com and the pattern will be sent to you.

PLEASE CHOOSE YOUR COLOR FROM THE DROPDOWN MENU

Hank, Skein, Cake, Ball

I know some people use hank and skein interchangeably, but the above is what I learned the different terms to mean.

If you buy yarn in a hank, you'll want to wind it up before working with it, otherwise you may end up with a huge tangled mess that will take hours and hours and hours to untangle - ask me how I know!

A swift and ball winder are useful, although not necessary.  If you wind the yarn with a winder, you get a cake; if you use your hands, you'll get a ball.

In place of a swift, you can drape the hank over the back of a chair, your knees, your feet, or talk someone into holding it for you on their hands.

You can wind a center pull ball with a toilet paper tube or paper towel tube cut in half, here is a video.

Giveaway: The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook

Want to learn more about different fibers?  Then this is the giveaway for you!  I am giving away one copy of The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook, pictured above.

To enter, simply leave a comment below telling me why you want to win this book.  Enter now through midnight EST January 31, 2015 for a chance to win.

a Rafflecopter giveaway






You must be 18 years of age to enter.  Winner will be chosen at random on February 2, 2015; if winner does not claim prize in 1 week, a new winner will be chosen.

Purl-Twist Knot Cowl - Free Pattern

                                        

 


Materials:US 9 circular needle, 24" 
1 skein of DK weight yarn, 230 yds (3.5 0z)
a stitch marker
tapestry needle
wool wash (optional)

Gauge: not critical

Finished Size: Appx. 6" tall, 48" circumference

Purl-Twist Knot Stitch:

Multiple of 4

Rounds 1 and 3: knit
Round 2: *k2, p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle
Round 4: *p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle, k2

Pattern:

Cast on 152 sts, join to knit in the round and place marker

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Work 10 repeats of Purl-Twist Knot Stitch

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Bind off, block, weave in ends. 

I made this fairly narrow with a large circumference so I could wear it wrapped twice.  

You can make the circumference smaller by casting on fewer stitches, making sure that you subtract by 4 (the stitch multiple).  Depending on how much smaller you go, you may need to use a 16" circular.

The cowl can be made taller by working additional repeats of the Purl-Twist Knot stitch. 

If you want a cowl even larger in circumference, cast on more stitches, being sure that you still have a multiple of four.

Keep in mind any size adjustments may require more yarn.

Feel free to sell finished items made using this pattern.