Tubular Cast on for 1x1 Ribbing

 

This is an excellent cast on for flat k1 p1 ribbing that creates a neat, tidy and flexible edge ideal for hats, sock and neckbands.  The tubular cast on eliminates the ridge along the bottom edge created by the regular long tail cast on, and creates instead an edge that resembles fabrics on store-bought items.  If you want to add a more professional look to your knits, this is a great cast on to use.

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color that is the same weight as your project yarn.  You can also use a lighter weight yarn if that is all you have on hand.  Preferably, the waste yarn should be smooth to make removing it easier.

A refresher on 1x1 Ribbing:

**For an even number of stitches:

Row 1: k1, p1

Repeat for pattern

**For an odd number of stitches:

Row 1: *k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

Repeat these two rows for the pattern

Step 1: With the waste yarn, cast on about half the required number of stitches.  You can use any cast on you like.  Knit a row, then purl a row.  At this point, you can cut the waste yarn and introduce your project yarn to continue working in stocking stitch for three more rows.  You should end with a knit row.

Step 2: The next row should be the wrong side of the stocking stitch fabric, and you should easily be able to see the purl bumps created when you began working with the project yarn.  It is these purl bumps that will be picked up as the row is worked - - this is why you want to use contrasting yarns, otherwise it will be rather difficult to see to pick up stitches.  In the picture below, you can clearly see the row of purl bumps in blue yarn on my sample.  

                                                                   

row of purl bumps to be picked up

Begin by purling the first stitch on the left needle.  Then, with the tip of the right needle, pick up the first purl bump, inserting the needle from the top (as shown below), and place the stitch on the left needle. When placing this stitch on the left needle, the tips of each needle should face each other as you make the transfer (as shown below).  Now knit the stitch. 

                                                                               

picking up a purl bump with right needle

                                                                                 

transferring the picked up purl bump to the left needle

Step 3: Continue purling one and knitting the picked up bump until all stitches have been worked. You should end with a purl stitch and an odd number of stitches.

Step 4: Continue working in k1, p1 ribbing for a few rows, until you have a stable piece of fabric.  If your ribbing is to be worked on an even number of stitches, knit into the front and back of the last stitch.  If you have ended up with an even number of stitches somehow and need an odd number, knit the last two stitches together.

Step 5: Once you have a stable piece of fabric, it is time to remove the waste yarn.  Choose either the tail from the cast on edge or the tail you cut before joining the project yarn, I chose the cast on tail in the video.  

                                                                            

 waste yarn can be removed by unraveling either the cast on tail or the tail cut before joining the project yarn

Just give the fabric a gentle tug to loosen things up, and then pull out the loose tail and unravel the stitches until the waste yarn has been removed.  You may find a tapestry needle helpful, especially along the cast on edge.

Now you are ready to continue with your project!

Knitted Embellishments

 

Something a little different.  I have really gotten into making cards the past few years.  Sometimes I like to combine that with knitting.  

Double Decrease - P3tog

 

P3tog (purl three together) is a double decrease that presents as right leaning on the right side of the work.  It can be a bit fiddly getting your needle into three stitches at once; needles with a pointy tip can be helpful, as can using a yarn made from fiber that has elasticity (wool).  Scooting the stitches near the tip of the needle can also help.

An easy alternative is to slip two stitches purlwise to the right needle, purl the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the purl stitch.

Neaten the last bind off stitch

 

Often the last bind off stitch looks sloppy.  No worries, you can easily neaten up that last stitch.

Work until there is just one stitch left to bind off.

Slip the last stitch to the right needle.

With the left needle, pull up the stitch in the row below from the back and keep on the left needle.

Slip the last bind off stitch back to the left needle, then knit it together with the stitch pulled up from below.

Pass the stitch over as normal, cut the tail and pull through last stitch.

Give the tail a gentle tug to snug things up.

No more sloppy bind off.

Estimating Tail Length for Long Tail Cast Ons

 Here is a brief video showing how to estimate the length of yarn you will need to do a long tail cast on.  

New Cast On Video - Twisted Loop

Twisted Loop Cast On creates a very flexible cast on edge.  Use it for top down socks, necklines or anywhere you need stretch.  Also, since you're working from the ball yarn to form the stitches on the needle, there is no worry about running out of yarn before you have all of the stitches you need cast on!

Tilbrook Crescent Shawl - New Pattern

My new shawl pattern, Tilbrook, is now available.  

You can get this as a kit, or just the pattern.

This is for an advanced knitter; it uses 2 skeins of my Merino Dream fingering weight yarn and beads!  There are two different kinds of lace separated by a lateral braid, then easy short row shaping for the body.

The kit comes with yarn, beads, a pack of SOAK, digital pattern, plus a special discount.

Here is more info, or you can hop over to the shop to check out the details:

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

• Short rows
• Working with beads
• Cast on at beginning of the row
• knit/purl, k2tog, k3tog, yarn over, ssk, slipped stitches, psso, knit back loop

You will need:

• US Size 6 36" or longer circular needle
• 7 oz (200 gr) / 980 yds (896 m) of fingering weight yarn (2 skeins Merino Dream)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends.
• 236 Size 6 beads
• No. 8 (0.90 mm) steel crochet hook for placing beads

Vandyke Lace

Sample knit with sport weight yarn on US 10 needles

Multiple of 3

Row 1 (RS): *k1, (yo) twice, k2tog

Rows 2 and 4: purl, treating each double yarn over as a single stitch (purl first yo, then drop it and the second yo off left needle)

Row 3: *k2tog, (yo) twice, k1

Repeat these four rows for the pattern.

Happy Knitting!

Black Friday Goodies

All of the paid digital patterns in my shop are just $1 - good today ONLY, Friday November 25, 2016.

Through Sunday November 27, 2016 the code YARNLOVE gets you10% off your entire order.

That means if you buy a pattern for $1, and use the discount code at checkout - your pattern is only 90 cents!  Can't beat that, can ya?

Easy Chevron Lace Cowl Kit

This cowl is worked in the round in a simple, attractive Chevron Lace pattern using my popular Merino DK base.  Merino DK is an incredibly soft, squishy 100% Superwash Merino wool.

Size: Appx. 42" circumference x 13" tall after blocking

Skill Level: Easy/Advanced Beginner

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

Working in the round, knit stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip-slip-knit, purl stitch

You will receive:

• Digital pattern and 2 skeins of Merino DK

You will need:

• US Size 8 circular needle, 24"
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle/crochet hook for weaving in ends.
• Blocking mat, wires/pins, wool wash or gentle soap - you can pin your project out onto the floor or a bed, or anywhere it won't be disturbed while drying if you don't have mats.

The pattern is completely written out, and a chart is included for the Chevron Lace.

Once your order has been processed, you will receive an email with a link to download the pattern.  If you do not get a download link, or it doesn't work, email sapphiresnpurlsknitting@gmail.com and the pattern will be sent to you.

PLEASE CHOOSE YOUR COLOR FROM THE DROPDOWN MENU

Hank, Skein, Cake, Ball

I know some people use hank and skein interchangeably, but the above is what I learned the different terms to mean.

If you buy yarn in a hank, you'll want to wind it up before working with it, otherwise you may end up with a huge tangled mess that will take hours and hours and hours to untangle - ask me how I know!

A swift and ball winder are useful, although not necessary.  If you wind the yarn with a winder, you get a cake; if you use your hands, you'll get a ball.

In place of a swift, you can drape the hank over the back of a chair, your knees, your feet, or talk someone into holding it for you on their hands.

You can wind a center pull ball with a toilet paper tube or paper towel tube cut in half, here is a video.

Giveaway: The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook

Want to learn more about different fibers?  Then this is the giveaway for you!  I am giving away one copy of The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook, pictured above.

To enter, simply leave a comment below telling me why you want to win this book.  Enter now through midnight EST January 31, 2015 for a chance to win.

a Rafflecopter giveaway






You must be 18 years of age to enter.  Winner will be chosen at random on February 2, 2015; if winner does not claim prize in 1 week, a new winner will be chosen.

Purl-Twist Knot Cowl - Free Pattern

                                        

 


Materials:US 9 circular needle, 24" 
1 skein of DK weight yarn, 230 yds (3.5 0z)
a stitch marker
tapestry needle
wool wash (optional)

Gauge: not critical

Finished Size: Appx. 6" tall, 48" circumference

Purl-Twist Knot Stitch:

Multiple of 4

Rounds 1 and 3: knit
Round 2: *k2, p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle
Round 4: *p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle, k2

Pattern:

Cast on 152 sts, join to knit in the round and place marker

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Work 10 repeats of Purl-Twist Knot Stitch

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Bind off, block, weave in ends. 

I made this fairly narrow with a large circumference so I could wear it wrapped twice.  

You can make the circumference smaller by casting on fewer stitches, making sure that you subtract by 4 (the stitch multiple).  Depending on how much smaller you go, you may need to use a 16" circular.

The cowl can be made taller by working additional repeats of the Purl-Twist Knot stitch. 

If you want a cowl even larger in circumference, cast on more stitches, being sure that you still have a multiple of four.

Keep in mind any size adjustments may require more yarn.

Feel free to sell finished items made using this pattern.