Tubular Cast On for 2x2 Ribbing

 

This is an excellent cast on for flat k2 p2 ribbing that creates a neat, tidy edge.  Not quite as flexible as the k1 p1 tubular cast on, but much more flexible than regular long tail cast on.  The tubular cast on eliminates the ridge along the bottom edge created by the regular long tail cast on, and creates instead an edge that resembles fabrics on store-bought items.  If you want to add a more professional look to your knits, this is a great cast on to use.

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color that is the same weight as your project yarn.  You can also use a lighter weight yarn if that is all you have on hand.  Preferably, the waste yarn should be smooth to make removing it easier.

A refresher on 2x2 Ribbing:

**Multiple of 4 - this will result in one edge of the fabric being k2 and the opposite edge being p2

Row 1: k2, p2

Repeat for pattern

**Multiple of 4 + 2 - this will result in both edges of the fabric being k2 

Row 1: *k2, p2; rep from *, end k2

Row 2: *p2, k2; rep from *, end p2

Repeat these two rows for the pattern

Step 1: With the waste yarn, cast on about half the required number of stitches.  You can use any cast on you like.  Knit a row, then purl a row.  At this point, you can cut the waste yarn and introduce your project yarn to continue working in stocking stitch for three more rows.  You should end with a knit row.

Step 2: The next row should be the wrong side of the stocking stitch fabric, and you should easily be able to see the purl bumps created when you began working with the project yarn.  It is these purl bumps that will be picked up as the row is worked - - this is why you want to use contrasting yarns, otherwise it will be rather difficult to see to pick up stitches.  In the picture below, you can clearly see the row of purl bumps in blue yarn on my sample.  

                                                                   

row of purl bumps to be picked up

Begin by purling the first two stitches on the left needle.  Then, with the tip of the right needle, pick up the first purl bump, inserting the needle from the top (as shown below), and place the stitch on the left needle. When placing this stitch on the left needle, the tips of each needle should face each other as you make the transfer (as shown below).  Now knit the stitch.  Pick up the second purl bump and place it on the left needle, and knit it.  You should now have two purl stitches and two knit stitches on the right needle.

                                                                               

picking up a purl bump with right needle

                                                                                 

transferring the picked up purl bump to the left needle

Step 3: Continue purling two and knitting the two picked up bumps until you have two purl bumps waiting to be picked up and one stitch on the left needle.  Pick up and knit the next purl bump and knit; pick up the last purl bump and knit into both the front and the back of this stitch.  Then purl the last stitch on the left needle.  

Step 4: Continue working in k2, p2 ribbing for a few rows, until you have a stable piece of fabric.  

Step 5: Once you have a stable piece of fabric, it is time to remove the waste yarn.  Choose either the tail from the cast on edge or the tail you cut before joining the project yarn, I chose the tail I cut when I was done with the waste yarn in the video.  

                                                                            

 waste yarn can be removed by unraveling either the cast on tail or the tail cut before joining the project yarn

Just give the fabric a gentle tug to loosen things up, and then pull out the loose tail and unravel the stitches until the waste yarn has been removed.  You may find a tapestry needle helpful, especially along the cast on edge.

Now you are ready to continue with your project!

Tubular Cast on for 1x1 Ribbing

 

This is an excellent cast on for flat k1 p1 ribbing that creates a neat, tidy and flexible edge ideal for hats, sock and neckbands.  The tubular cast on eliminates the ridge along the bottom edge created by the regular long tail cast on, and creates instead an edge that resembles fabrics on store-bought items.  If you want to add a more professional look to your knits, this is a great cast on to use.

You will need some waste yarn in a contrasting color that is the same weight as your project yarn.  You can also use a lighter weight yarn if that is all you have on hand.  Preferably, the waste yarn should be smooth to make removing it easier.

A refresher on 1x1 Ribbing:

**For an even number of stitches:

Row 1: k1, p1

Repeat for pattern

**For an odd number of stitches:

Row 1: *k1, p1; rep from *, end k1

Row 2: *p1, k1; rep from *, end p1

Repeat these two rows for the pattern

Step 1: With the waste yarn, cast on about half the required number of stitches.  You can use any cast on you like.  Knit a row, then purl a row.  At this point, you can cut the waste yarn and introduce your project yarn to continue working in stocking stitch for three more rows.  You should end with a knit row.

Step 2: The next row should be the wrong side of the stocking stitch fabric, and you should easily be able to see the purl bumps created when you began working with the project yarn.  It is these purl bumps that will be picked up as the row is worked - - this is why you want to use contrasting yarns, otherwise it will be rather difficult to see to pick up stitches.  In the picture below, you can clearly see the row of purl bumps in blue yarn on my sample.  

                                                                   

row of purl bumps to be picked up

Begin by purling the first stitch on the left needle.  Then, with the tip of the right needle, pick up the first purl bump, inserting the needle from the top (as shown below), and place the stitch on the left needle. When placing this stitch on the left needle, the tips of each needle should face each other as you make the transfer (as shown below).  Now knit the stitch. 

                                                                               

picking up a purl bump with right needle

                                                                                 

transferring the picked up purl bump to the left needle

Step 3: Continue purling one and knitting the picked up bump until all stitches have been worked. You should end with a purl stitch and an odd number of stitches.

Step 4: Continue working in k1, p1 ribbing for a few rows, until you have a stable piece of fabric.  If your ribbing is to be worked on an even number of stitches, knit into the front and back of the last stitch.  If you have ended up with an even number of stitches somehow and need an odd number, knit the last two stitches together.

Step 5: Once you have a stable piece of fabric, it is time to remove the waste yarn.  Choose either the tail from the cast on edge or the tail you cut before joining the project yarn, I chose the cast on tail in the video.  

                                                                            

 waste yarn can be removed by unraveling either the cast on tail or the tail cut before joining the project yarn

Just give the fabric a gentle tug to loosen things up, and then pull out the loose tail and unravel the stitches until the waste yarn has been removed.  You may find a tapestry needle helpful, especially along the cast on edge.

Now you are ready to continue with your project!

Knitted Embellishments

 

Something a little different.  I have really gotten into making cards the past few years.  Sometimes I like to combine that with knitting.  

Double Decrease - P3tog

 

P3tog (purl three together) is a double decrease that presents as right leaning on the right side of the work.  It can be a bit fiddly getting your needle into three stitches at once; needles with a pointy tip can be helpful, as can using a yarn made from fiber that has elasticity (wool).  Scooting the stitches near the tip of the needle can also help.

An easy alternative is to slip two stitches purlwise to the right needle, purl the next stitch, then pass the two slipped stitches over the purl stitch.

Neaten the last bind off stitch

 

Often the last bind off stitch looks sloppy.  No worries, you can easily neaten up that last stitch.

Work until there is just one stitch left to bind off.

Slip the last stitch to the right needle.

With the left needle, pull up the stitch in the row below from the back and keep on the left needle.

Slip the last bind off stitch back to the left needle, then knit it together with the stitch pulled up from below.

Pass the stitch over as normal, cut the tail and pull through last stitch.

Give the tail a gentle tug to snug things up.

No more sloppy bind off.

Estimating Tail Length for Long Tail Cast Ons

 Here is a brief video showing how to estimate the length of yarn you will need to do a long tail cast on.  

New Cast On Video - Twisted Loop

Twisted Loop Cast On creates a very flexible cast on edge.  Use it for top down socks, necklines or anywhere you need stretch.  Also, since you're working from the ball yarn to form the stitches on the needle, there is no worry about running out of yarn before you have all of the stitches you need cast on!

Tilbrook Crescent Shawl - New Pattern

My new shawl pattern, Tilbrook, is now available.  

You can get this as a kit, or just the pattern.

This is for an advanced knitter; it uses 2 skeins of my Merino Dream fingering weight yarn and beads!  There are two different kinds of lace separated by a lateral braid, then easy short row shaping for the body.

The kit comes with yarn, beads, a pack of SOAK, digital pattern, plus a special discount.

Here is more info, or you can hop over to the shop to check out the details:

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

• Short rows
• Working with beads
• Cast on at beginning of the row
• knit/purl, k2tog, k3tog, yarn over, ssk, slipped stitches, psso, knit back loop

You will need:

• US Size 6 36" or longer circular needle
• 7 oz (200 gr) / 980 yds (896 m) of fingering weight yarn (2 skeins Merino Dream)
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends.
• 236 Size 6 beads
• No. 8 (0.90 mm) steel crochet hook for placing beads

Vandyke Lace

Sample knit with sport weight yarn on US 10 needles

Multiple of 3

Row 1 (RS): *k1, (yo) twice, k2tog

Rows 2 and 4: purl, treating each double yarn over as a single stitch (purl first yo, then drop it and the second yo off left needle)

Row 3: *k2tog, (yo) twice, k1

Repeat these four rows for the pattern.

Happy Knitting!

Black Friday Goodies

All of the paid digital patterns in my shop are just $1 - good today ONLY, Friday November 25, 2016.

Through Sunday November 27, 2016 the code YARNLOVE gets you10% off your entire order.

That means if you buy a pattern for $1, and use the discount code at checkout - your pattern is only 90 cents!  Can't beat that, can ya?

Easy Chevron Lace Cowl Kit

This cowl is worked in the round in a simple, attractive Chevron Lace pattern using my popular Merino DK base.  Merino DK is an incredibly soft, squishy 100% Superwash Merino wool.

Size: Appx. 42" circumference x 13" tall after blocking

Skill Level: Easy/Advanced Beginner

You should feel comfortable with the following techniques/stitches:

Working in the round, knit stitch, knit 2 together, yarn over, slip-slip-knit, purl stitch

You will receive:

• Digital pattern and 2 skeins of Merino DK

You will need:

• US Size 8 circular needle, 24"
• Stitch marker
• Yarn needle/crochet hook for weaving in ends.
• Blocking mat, wires/pins, wool wash or gentle soap - you can pin your project out onto the floor or a bed, or anywhere it won't be disturbed while drying if you don't have mats.

The pattern is completely written out, and a chart is included for the Chevron Lace.

Once your order has been processed, you will receive an email with a link to download the pattern.  If you do not get a download link, or it doesn't work, email sapphiresnpurlsknitting@gmail.com and the pattern will be sent to you.

PLEASE CHOOSE YOUR COLOR FROM THE DROPDOWN MENU

Hank, Skein, Cake, Ball

I know some people use hank and skein interchangeably, but the above is what I learned the different terms to mean.

If you buy yarn in a hank, you'll want to wind it up before working with it, otherwise you may end up with a huge tangled mess that will take hours and hours and hours to untangle - ask me how I know!

A swift and ball winder are useful, although not necessary.  If you wind the yarn with a winder, you get a cake; if you use your hands, you'll get a ball.

In place of a swift, you can drape the hank over the back of a chair, your knees, your feet, or talk someone into holding it for you on their hands.

You can wind a center pull ball with a toilet paper tube or paper towel tube cut in half, here is a video.

Giveaway: The Fleece and Fiber Sourcebook

Want to learn more about different fibers?  Then this is the giveaway for you!  I am giving away one copy of The Fleece & Fiber Sourcebook, pictured above.

To enter, simply leave a comment below telling me why you want to win this book.  Enter now through midnight EST January 31, 2015 for a chance to win.

a Rafflecopter giveaway






You must be 18 years of age to enter.  Winner will be chosen at random on February 2, 2015; if winner does not claim prize in 1 week, a new winner will be chosen.

Purl-Twist Knot Cowl - Free Pattern

                                        

 


Materials:US 9 circular needle, 24" 
1 skein of DK weight yarn, 230 yds (3.5 0z)
a stitch marker
tapestry needle
wool wash (optional)

Gauge: not critical

Finished Size: Appx. 6" tall, 48" circumference

Purl-Twist Knot Stitch:

Multiple of 4

Rounds 1 and 3: knit
Round 2: *k2, p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle
Round 4: *p2tog and leave on needle, p first st again, then drop from needle, k2

Pattern:

Cast on 152 sts, join to knit in the round and place marker

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Work 10 repeats of Purl-Twist Knot Stitch

Work 4 rounds k2 p2 rib

Bind off, block, weave in ends. 

I made this fairly narrow with a large circumference so I could wear it wrapped twice.  

You can make the circumference smaller by casting on fewer stitches, making sure that you subtract by 4 (the stitch multiple).  Depending on how much smaller you go, you may need to use a 16" circular.

The cowl can be made taller by working additional repeats of the Purl-Twist Knot stitch. 

If you want a cowl even larger in circumference, cast on more stitches, being sure that you still have a multiple of four.

Keep in mind any size adjustments may require more yarn.

Feel free to sell finished items made using this pattern.  

Bijou - Free Shawlette Pattern!

SORRY - PATTERN NO LONGER AVAILABLE

Hi everyone!  Finally, at long last, the pattern for my Bijou Shawlette is available!

You can get this through my shop, or as a free Ravelry download, or from Craftsy.  

Here is more info:

This is a triangle shawl knit from the top down.

It uses only one skein of my Springy Sport, or you may substitute any similar yarn you like.

Materials:
1 skein 3 ply sport weight yarn - 328 yds/299 m - 3.5 oz/100 gr
US size 10 circular needle at least 32”
Cable or DPN
8 locking stitch markers
194 Japanese glass seed beads, size 6/0
Yarn needle for weaving in ends

Blocking pins, mats, wires or whatever you use to block your projects and wool wash such as SOAK are useful but not required.

Depending on your preferred method of stringing beads, you may need a piece of scrap yarn, crochet hook, etc.

Skills:
You should know how to knit, purl, make yarn overs, k2tog, p2tog, and ssk, and feel comfortable with cables. You should also feel comfortable working with beads.

Yarn Giveaway!

Not so long ago, (October 2013 to be exact) I set up shop on Storenvy to sell my hand dyed yarn.  I hoped and prayed people would like my yarn, but I never dreamed I would get the response I have had.  So many of you have purchased my yarn, and you keep coming back!  I can't tell you how happy it makes me to be able to share my passion for not only dyeing yarn, but knitting as well.    I love "talking" with you all on Facebook, and I love to see pictures of the projects you have completed using my yarn!

So, to say THANK YOU, I am giving away a lovely Vera Bradley bag, some beautiful glass beads, a cute flower highlighter, a few mini packets of SOAK, and of course - yarn!  There is some fingering/sock weight, DK, worsted, and chunky weight yarn.

This is open to those in the US only, 18+ please, and will run through midnight August 31, 2014 EST.

Just use Rafflecopter below to enter!


a Rafflecopter giveaway

Knots in Yarn

Knots in yarn are inevitable. It happens with both expensive and cheap yarns.  It happens with both commercially spun and hand spun yarns.  I am not talking about a tangled wad of yarn barf.  I am talking about the place in a skein of yarn where two ends are tied together.

When I first started knitting, I got very frustrated when I found a knot (or two, or three) in my yarn.  First I thought it was just because I was using cheap acrylic yarn.  As I got into more expensive and natural fiber yarns, I continued to find knots!  I thought, how can there be knots in this $25 silk yarn?  It was maddening to find these knots and I didn't understand why.

I spend a good deal of time on knitting forums, and have seen many people ranting and raving and swearing to never purchase yarn from this or that particular brand ever again because of knots.  I've also read blogs or seen videos where people say you should not ever find knots in your yarn, and yarn with knots is poor quality.  It is nice to have knot free skeins, but to expect to have one long perfect strand of yarn each and every time I think is a little unreasonable.

I've realized over the years that just because yarn is expensive, it doesn't mean that at some point, the manufacturer didn't have to join a new strand of yarn to complete the skein of yarn.  Or perhaps, as the fiber is zipping through the machines, it breaks.  Enter the KNOT.  Often the two ends are just tied together; some yarn that I have knit with has had the two ends joined with the little bits trimmed off so the joins aren't so noticeable.

Knots happen, and it isn't worth getting so upset over.  When I come across a knot, I simply untie it if possible, and then continue on with my knitting.  If I can't untie the knot, I just cut it out.  The joins that have been neatly trimmed by the manufacturer I don't bother to do anything at all with, I just knit right past them.  I no longer get frustrated or angry and accuse my yarn of being cheap garbage - to a point.

Generally, I don't mind finding four or so knots in my yarn.  More than that, I do get a little annoyed at having to stop knitting to deal with it, but I try to not let it get to me too much.  Sometimes I do think when there is a particularly bad skein with knots every few yards, those should be discounted.  I don't know what happens, but on occasion the whole shebang comes out screwy.  I pity the poor person who buys a large quantity from that batch; I suspect those are the folks doing much of the ranting and raving.

I've said before that it would be nice to know beforehand if a particular skein has knots, but I guess we, as crafters, are supposed to be aware that such things can happen.  OK, I am aware that knots happen - I'd still like to know beforehand. Selling my own hand dyed yarns, I do try to catch these things and make note so people know what to expect.  I think that is only fair.

If you purchase yarn that comes in hanks, you know that you must wind them before using them; this is when you will find any knots in the yarn so you won't be surprised.  If you typically purchase yarn that is ready to knit from, you won't discover the knots until you come to them, or you can rewind the yarn to check for knots.  That may seem like a hassle, but if you don't want to be surprised, it is time well spent to rewind.

Above I mentioned how I deal with knots when knitting.  If you crochet, here is a post with some helpful info.

What do you do about knots in your yarn?  Leave me a comment below, I'd love to hear your thoughts.

Annaliese Shawl - FREE Knitting Pattern

I wanted to share this shawl pattern with you.  This is knit with my wonderful Silk Camel yarn!  So soft, and the drape is amazing.


This is a crescent shaped shawl for the intermediate knitter.

The lace edging is knit first, then stitches are picked up and knit along the edge to work the main body of the shawl.

You will need just 1 hank of my Silk Camel fingering weight yarn, or you may substitute any similar weight yarn.  You will also need a US size 10.5 needle; the edging can be knit on a straight needle, but a 32" circular needle is recommended to accommodate the stitches for the body of the shawl.

The shawl measures appx. 46" x 19" after blocking.

The skills required to knit the shawl are:
• Short row shaping
• Pick up and knit
• I-cord bind off
• Knit/K2tog/K2tog tbl/K3tog
• Purl/P2tog
• SSK
• Yarn overs – single/double/beginning of row
• Slip and pass stitches over

There are several ways to get the pattern:

From my Storenvy shop, add the pattern to your cart and checkout.  An email will be sent with the download link.   CLICK HERE

To download from Ravelry CLICK HERE

From Craftsy, place the pattern in your cart and checkout to download the pattern.  CLICK HERE

Celeste Cowl - New Knitting Pattern!

This is an easy lace pattern that takes only one hank of my Triple Luxury DK yarn, or you may substitute 3.5 oz / 252 yds of a similar yarn.  Sample was knit with the color Forest Dusk.


The finished size after blocking is appx. 30"x12".  Notes are given for making the cowl larger.

You will need to be comfortable working in the round on circular needles, know how to knit, purl, yo, slip/pass slipped stitches over.

You will need a 24" US size 8 circular needle, a stitch marker, yarn needle for weaving in loose ends, and wool wash or gentle soap (optional).

Pattern is written with a chart for the main stitch used.

Click HERE to purchase the pattern and yarn.

Up, Down, All-Around Stitch Dictionary Review

You may know that I love stitch dictionaries!  This one is no exception.  I pre-ordered back in December without hesitation, and it finally arrived a few weeks ago.

I loooove this book!  So very nice to have the thinking done for you to convert stitches from flat to circular knitting. But wait, there's more :0)  Maybe you want to work the pattern top down, or in the opposite direction.  You can do that with this book!

 This is a great for top down shawl knitting - you know how stitches appear upside down when you knit a shawl that way.  No more with this book!

Not every stitch has instructions for top down/circular, as I had thought.  Some of the swatches are in a yarn that does not best display the stitch, but I don't mind so much.  The book is also spiral bound so it lays flat - a real bonus.
It is well written, and I am sure I will put it to good use!

This is an excellent addition to your knitting library. If you do not want to purchase it, check your local library.

The book is broken up into Knits and Purls, Ribs, Textured, Slipped and Fancy Stitches, Yarn Overs and Eyelets, Cables, Lace, Colorwork, and Hems and Edgings.

There are even some patterns too, such as a cowl, a watch cap, bed socks, a bolero, a vest, pull over, mitts, a scarf, a stole, a slouch cap, and mittens.

If you like to design your own projects, this stitch dictionary is a wonderful resource and I encourage you to add it to your knitting book collection.

Color changing yarn!

Ever since I started messing around with dyeing my own yarn years ago, I've wanted to do those wonderful, slooooowww color changing yarns.  I think I have tried every single method out there, read just about every book, blog and article I could find on dyeing this type of yarn.  I even bought a fancy schmancy machine to make my own blanks, but that didn't work out too well.  I've just not been able to find a quick way to do this type of dyeing. 

I've been asked by several people about slow color changing yarn lately.   The other day, I remembered a method I had thought I would like to try, but up to now had not.  I thought I would give it a whirl.  Below are the results of my experimenting.  What do you think?  These, along with some other colors, will soon be available in my shop!    

Calypso Shawl - Free Pattern!

MY YARN SHOP HAS CLOSED.  THIS YARN AND PATTERN ARE NO LONGER AVAILABLE

Here is a free shawl pattern for you!  This is super easy and pretty quick to knit up. I wanted a shawl that wasn't just another triangle, or shaped in the usual way.  I had fun with shaping on this, and absolutely love how it turned out.

I used some of my Shimmer yarn, but you can use any fingering weight yarn you like.   (The color I used has sold out, but I do have a few other colors available in this yarn if you would like to use the same yarn!)  This is knit in garter stitch, so even a beginner can do this.

I used yarn overs as my increases, but you can use any increase you like.  The yarn overs at the beginning of the rows are for increasing, and you won't even see them once the shawl has been blocked.  If you will be using another increase, I would knit the first stitch, then work the increase - kfb just as an example.

I wanted to use up as much yarn as possible, without ending up having too little to finish my bind off, so my last increase section is significantly smaller than the others. You can stop and bind off before the last increase section, or you can even continue on if you want the shawl to be bigger.

Yarn! Yarn! Yarn!

I totally love dyeing yarn!  Above is Orchid Nectar - doesn't it look positively yummy? Imagine a lace shawl in this color, or maybe just a light, wispy summer scarf.

There is just a handful of this color.  It is available in two bases:

Merino Silk - Fingering/Sock weight

Superwash Merino - Lace weight


I've got lots of other colors and bases available.  If you haven't yet, stop by my Storenvy shop and take a look around!

I recently got a shipment of all brand new bases, and I am so excited to experiment with them!  I hope to have those ready to list some time in May.

Happy Crafting - go have yourself a super day!

Holding two strands of yarn together for a thicker yarn

Some good-to-know info incase you can't seem to find the weight of yarn you need:


The following are approximate equivalents; however, as with all substitutions, you should check to make sure you're obtaining gauge. 

2 strands fingering = one strand sportweight 
2 strands sport = one strand worsted weight 
2 strands worsted = one strand chunky to super bulky weight*

*2 strands of a lighter worsted yarn held together may approximate the thickness of a chunky yarn, while 2 strands of a heavier worsted weight yarn held together may approximate the thickness of a super bulky yarn. Because of this range, again, it is recommended you should make a gauge swatch to test.

(From the Lion Brand Website)

New yarn!

I wanted to share a few pictures of some of the new yarns I have.  Check out my shop for more!

I've got a 100% Merino Wool worsted weight.  This is a NON superwash, so it will felt.  Perfect if you want to make a felted bag!  There will be three colors available: Red Velvet Cake, Neon Butterfly, and Blue Yonder.  Blue Yonder is available now, Red Velvet Cake and Neon Butterfly will be available soon!

I don't have a picture yet of Red Velvet Cake, but here is Blue Yonder and Neon Butterfly.

I've also got a Superwash Aran weight base - this yarn is so soft and fluffy and smooshy!  There will be two colors available - one is dyed and drying and the other is almost done with the dyeing process.  Keep an eye on my Facebook page, I post updates on the yarn regularly!  I haven't decided on any names yet, but here is a picture of the Aran yarn that is almost ready.

I've also added some Fingering weight yarn that I call Shimmer because it has silver stellina in it.  Two colors available now, Gold Dust and Mardi Gras!  Gorgeous!

YARN SALE!

Yay, it's a yarn sale!   Through the end of January, you can use code 5KDISC at checkout to get 40% off any purchase in the shop!

http://sapphiresnpurls.storenvy.com/


Lots of yummy yarn!

The discount is good on everything in the shop.

Below are just a few pictures of some of the yarn available.

Cocoon Cowl - FREE PATTERN

Cocoon Cowl

Here is a new free pattern for you all.  This uses Patons Roving yarn and US 11 needles, so it is a super quick knit.

You will need to know how to knit, knit through the back loop, slip stitches, and slip stitches purlwise through the back loop.  This is knit in the round, so you should also be comfortable using circular needles.  That said, it is a fairly simple pattern.

I did a video on this stitch pattern back in August of 2012, and have wanted to make something with it ever since.  It took a while to get around to it :-)


You can download the pattern for free from my Craftsy store by clicking on the picture below.

I hope you like the cowl!  If you make it, feel free to stop by my facebook page and share a picture!

Source: Cocoon Cowl via SapphiresnPurls on Craftsy